- Jimmy Buffet

I’m not much of a Jimmy Buffet fan, despite knowing most of his catalog by heart. Nonetheless, certain sentiments hit home, and that passage in particular was poignant for me recently as I sat on the deck at Bay View Lodge in northern Minnesota. Bay View is located on beautiful Lake Vermilion, just south of the “end of the road” at Ely. In terms of picturesque locations, “Big V” is incredibly hard to beat in the lower 48; it’s also a place that I hold very near and dear to my heart.

On TrophyRoom.com, I’m known as Smallmouth King, although that’s a bit of a misnomer. I rarely get the chance to fish these days with work taking up far too much of my time, and living in Germany surely doesn’t help either. Over here you need to take a two week theory class, in German, just to get a fishing license. After you jump through those hoops, you need to join a fishing club, which you have to pay for the privilege to join. After having done that, you can only fish waters that club has rights to. In most of Germany, and especially where I reside, there is a distinct lack of natural bodies of water. Most fishing is found in sand pits called “Baggersees”. It’s there you’ll find old, wrinkly eyesores lining the shores in the summer with most visitors naked as a jay bird. It’s just not the kind of place I close my eyes and dream about. Vermilion, on the other hand, is.

Since I was kid, I’ve been going north at least once per summer, usually targeting the first or second week of June when the smallmouth are going absolutely mental, and the walleyes come up shallow. Back in the day, it was just automatic. My dad would pay for everything, and I’d just get in the truck. These days, as we all realize with age, to do something like that takes not only resources, but time. To put the two together is increasingly difficult as our relationships and professional obligations demand more and more of us. So you can imagine my satisfaction when, for the first time ever, I was able to call a fishing trip, business.

Sometime in mid-April, when the jones to get the lines tight and fill my lungs with pine-flavored air hit its peak, I started to look around for a cabin to rent on Vermilion. $800. $1200. $1500… per week. Say what?

Just to get to the lake I would likely spend thousands. I was down, but not out. What happened next was nothing short of poetry.

Rumor had it that there was a new sheriff in town on Lake Vermilion. A dude named Erik Lietz had just taken over the Bay View Lodge, a haunt I knew well with its sprawling deck and tiki bar that, when viewed from just the right angle, at just the right distance, resembled the Guns of Navarone. A true behemoth of a cocktail-and-chicken-wing-lovin’ leisure spot. And that’s to say nothing of the wait staff: Girls. Hot. Lots of them.

But how could it be that I couldn’t find anything out about this online? I searched and I searched and all I could find was a nebulous confirmation in the Greenwood Township Council minutes in some lame PDF that had recently been published. I couldn’t believe that a sleeping beast like the Bay View didn’t have more PR muscle behind it. This place was coming back from a two year slumber and the world had to know!

I managed to get Erik on the phone after stalking him online to figure out his phone number – the Bay View’s number wasn’t published anywhere. I told him my story, sold it sweet, sprinkled fish guts and whiskey on top of it, and sent him links to my work. A few days waiting and the deal was a go: a website and a social media shove for two weeks on the lake. Wooooooo!

To be honest, though, I wasn’t entirely sure about our rather loose agreement until I drove down the long, winding gravel road to the lodge on the day the day I arrived, my father following behind me with his red Lund in tow. Thankfully Erik turned out to be a very cool, very “fishy” dude. A hardcore Lake Michigan salmon angler, and native Iron Ranger, Erik and I spent more than one night at his bar soaking beers, telling fishing stories, and talking about what could be, and what should be, at Bay View. We also ate lots of hamburgers.

Yes, I was living the dream.

Paul Cownie, founder of Trophy Room, made the trek from Denver, by way of Des Moines, to join me at my cabin for a couple of days to soak some more beers, crush the fish, plus discuss future plans for our common project, TrophyRoom.com. Paul is one of my best friends, and in fact his whole family rate as some of the best people in my life outside of my own. It was great to be back in the company of an outdoor nut like him – and to think that if we keep doing things right, doing trips like this for a living could someday become a reality.

The world seemed right. The sunburn across my forehead and nose stung sweetly. The spot on my hand between my thumb and index finger where a walleye had sunk its dorsal spines ached beautifully. The Schmidt tops popped, and the suds stoked my spirit to a righteous warmth. I was there, and I was supposed to be there.

When I was 14 years old my dream was to be a professional angler. That didn’t exactly work out, but somehow I’ve managed to do what I can with the tools at hand and get pretty close to the x ring. So here’s to Erik Lietz, Paul Cownie, Trophy Room, Lake Vermilion, Bay View Lodge, and most of all, to mother nature for providing me with my passion, and a reason to keep pushing. Sometimes we get what we want in this life, and it makes everything else tolerable.

Kevin Dunn is a great friend and angler who I travel with on a regular basis for destination hunting and fishing trips. We met in Key West in late April this year for a two man, two day strike force tarpon mission. Last year we did the same thing and we got blanked, which as I’m learning more about the Keys, isn’t uncommon no matter how skilled of an angler you are. The Keys are very sensitive to weather – you can’t simply show up and expect great fishing. However, if it’s the right time of the year and the weather cooperates, the fishing can be nothing short of fantastic. This year we were determined to change things from our 2009 trip. This is where Mikey O came into play.

Captain Mike O’Brien is a very sweet dude. He’s a California transplant to the Keys who is the definition of a “fishy dude”, as he likes to refer to his better angling clients. If he’s not putting his clients on fish or fishing himself, he’s kite boarding, surfing, or hanging out with his hammer girl friend. Like I said, he’s a sweet dude.

Mikey O called me in March and asked if I was coming down for tarpon season. The short answer was yes. We agreed that a late April, mid-week trip had the potential for two banner days of angling as Tarpon season typically heats up in May, and the fishery starts to experience serious pressure. A quick call to Kevin confirmed that he was in, so we met in Key West on a Tuesday. We needed light wind and sunshine, and particularly wind out of anywhere but the North. Day one was a Wednesday with northerly winds at 15+ MPH. We only had three shots¹ all day. We were beginning to think our Key West fishing was permanently cursed. The decision was made to get off the water early, so we decided to stretch our legs on Duval Street. That’s one of the bonuses of Key West – there’s always something to do if you like to hang out in fun places once the sun goes down. We were on the street early and in bed even earlier because Thursday’s forecast looked promising.

I’ve been lucky with the flats guides I’ve fished with in the Keys. They’ve all been good guys who really know what they’re doing and genuinely want to have a good time with you, teach you something, and put you on fish. If you were to take a straw poll from most fly fishermen who have fished the Keys, that unfortunately isn’t the norm. Many guides freak out at their clients for making poor casts or not fighting fish correctly, employ disinformation strategies with other guides and in general are total jerks. I’ve got about 5 friends who fish a tarpon tournament every year there who can attest to this phenomenon. Mikey O is the total opposite. As a sweet dude and fishy dude, all he wants to do is put you on fish and have a good day on the water with you, which is why I fish with him. Thursday was shaping up to be our day. It had to be because we were leaving on Friday.

Thursday morning started off with getting pulled over by the Coast Guard. I had my video camera out when they stopped us for not having “bright enough running lights” and they didn’t appreciate me recording everything. They ended up moderately flexing their muscles by letting us know they were in charge, but were for the most part harmless. Put one on the board for the Coast Guard being cool that morning – we told them we were going fishing and they let us go with a warning. Then we proceeded to get on fish – and a lot of fish.

Mikey O took us to a shallow channel where literally hundreds of tarpon were rolling. Kevin and I took turns on the bow and had over a hundred shots at tarpon in that channel. There was so much activity in this channel we only targeted rolling fish in casting range. We fed² four tarpon and jumped³ two. High fives were abundant that morning in that particular channel. I also proceeded to hook my right bicep on a back cast that bled like a throwing star wound for about 2 minutes. After taking a look at my arm when it quit bleeding, the consensus was my wound looked more snake bite than tarpon fly impalement. It definitely looked worse than it felt and it made for cool pictures.

Thursday started with a bang and ended well too. We jumped five tarpon, fed nine, and had more shots than either of us could ever remember having in one day. Mikey O had us on fish all day and we ended up fishing 12 hours – which is the real testament to Captain O’Brien’s work ethic. The stars had aligned and he was determined to make it a big day, and it was. And, for good measure, we had five shots at a school of permit. They refused our crab patterns, but it was a nice piece of extra credit for what was nothing short of great day of tarpon fishing.

Kevin put it best when we were wrapping up our day of fishing: “Catching a tarpon fly fishing is like winning the Super Bowl. It’s awesome and a great accomplishment – but, all you want to do after you win a Super Bowl is win another one. Same deal with catching a poon.” I couldn’t agree more.

Captain Mike O’Brien can be reached via his Trophy Room profile page or his web site at www.tarponkeywest.com. Give him a call if you like to catch fish with a sweet Keys flats guide.

¹ Shot: An individual cast at a single tarpon or multiple tarpon.
² Feed: “Serving” the fly to a tarpon – if angler feeds a tarpon properly it will “eat”.
³ Jump: Tarpon eats angler’s fly and angler sets the hook and the tarpon is on fly line long enough to jump at least once and angler doesn’t land the tarpon.
⁴ Eat: Tarpon bites angler’s fly, but the angler misses the hook- set.

As a guide a major part of my business and life these days is chasing trophy Northern Pike.  Over the years I have had some great days on the water as well as some tough ones; but every day I try to learn more about these awesome fish.  I’ve learned some of their primary habits and most importantly their habits when they become mature trophies (40+ inches).  The biggest thing I have found is trophy Pike lose that willingness to chase down food, especially in waters that offer an abundance of it without competition.  Anytime you find a body of water loaded with forage fish Pike act this way.  They become patient feeders.  A lot of serious Pike anglers have fished the classic Canadian Shield waters where Pike compete with Walleye, Bass and Muskie for the same food source. Serious food competition causes these fish to be voracious feeders that will attack whatever they can to secure a meal. Although in waters with more food and less competition, you are now dealing with a totally different fish. 

I find trophy Pike in prey rich environments operating in specific zones where they are comfortable (this means certain water temperature, depth, and close to safety, which usually equates to deep water). I’ve also learned these fish are fairly solitary creatures. Sometimes they operate in groups but the groups are always spread out – close to 100 feet apart or more.  My experience has also been these fish spook easily.  Noise, vibration, and shadows all seem to bother these fish and can make them very hard to target. And, the fact they are commonly spread out on large, shallow flats suspended just off the bottom or suspended in deeper water doesn’t make it any easier.  However, I know how to target these fish and put them in the boat.

The way to target trophy Pike in this situation is to troll planer boards. Planer boards accomplish two things: Number one they spread out your lines which helps you cover massive amounts of water.  I’m not afraid to put my boards 400 to 500 feet to the side of my boat.  By doing this I rake through large areas and pick off solo fish. The second thing planer boards do is let you present your baits without spooking fish.  I am so confident that my boat spooks fish that I hardly ever look at my locater on my graph – I monitor the GPS but my locater is not my focus because I know the fish are kicking out from under my boat because of the noise, vibration, and shadow it creates.  This is when using planer boards to position your lines away from the boat increases your odds of hooking trophy Pike astronomically.  I see a difference in catch ratio between the planer board closest to the boat and the one farthest from the boat – the farther away from the boat, the more likely you are to hook big Pike. Period. Presenting baits properly to undisturbed fish is the single most important strategy to remember when it comes to targeting trophy Pike. 

I am willing to bet that no matter where you fish for Pike there are some trophy Northerns available if spend a little bit of time looking for them. I am also willing to bet that this is a system that will produce fish for you.  Spend time looking for key feeding areas and start to cover that area like a grid, breaking it down until you find where the mature fish are operating.  Keep in mind many of these fish will never show themselves on a sonar unit.  Lastly, when you troll boards correctly I recommend having a big net in the boat and a camera ready, because you will want both of them. Have fun and good luck!

Nathan Zelinsky fishes over 300 days a year between Professional Walleye Tournaments, guiding through his outfitting business, Tightline Outdoors, fishing with sponsors, product testing and scouting. Zelinsky specializes in monster pike, trophy walleye and huge trout on his home waters of Colorado.

Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation out there about supplemental feeding and a lot of folks are likely not providing feed as effectively and as efficiently as they could be if they were more informed. Thankfully, a lot of new scientific research has been conducted to answer some important questions on supplemental feeding.

The Basics
Supplemental feeding is a management tool used to provide nutritious feed to deer, especially during times of stress. Stress periods occur when the quantity or quality of the native forage is in some way lacking. Or, when deer are physiologically stressed due to increased nutrient requirements for re-gaining body mass and growing antlers, in the case of bucks, or for producing and nursing fawns, in the case of does.

Supplemental feeding is often confused with baiting; however, they are two entirely different things. Supplemental feeding is done throughout the year and is used to improve nutrition, while baiting is done only during the fall to improve huntability.

What Is The Best Supplement?
In this next section, I will outline the advantages and disadvantages of the most commonly used forms of supplemental feed for deer. I have personally sampled all of these different forms of supplement with the samples sent to the Extension Soil, Water and Forage Testing Laboratory at Texas A&M University in College Station for testing.

Manufactured Protein Pellets
Easily the most common form of supplemental feed provided to deer is the manufactured protein pellet. Dozens of feed companies now manufacture their own varieties of deer pellets. No doubt deer pellets are being provided to deer in every state they inhabit as a result of the increasing popularity of supplemental feeding. And I can only imagine how many thousands of tons of pellets are dispensed across the U.S. annually!

Some of the advantages of deer pellets include: (1) they come the closest of any supplement to providing a complete ration that includes most macro- and micronutrients that deer need; (2) they can be custom milled to meet different regional and seasonal deer diets, as well as different manager objectives; and (3) they can be delivered in 50-pound bags or in bulk by the ton.

Some of the disadvantages of deer pellets include: (1) they are attractive to a wide variety of non-target animals including raccoons, feral hogs, javelina, and many birds requiring feeder sites to be fenced; (2) they do not handle moisture well and as a result, they need to be protected from the weather; (3) they are expensive relative to most other forms of supplement; and (4) they are less palatable (i.e., “attractive”) than some forms of supplement requiring the deer herd to be “trained” to eat them on a consistent basis.

Not all deer pellets are the same. Some brands of deer pellets are more palatable than other brands, so you may want to provide more than one type in side-by-side troughs to initially determine which type is most preferred by your deer herd. I recommend having the feed company custom mill corn into the pellet to make the pellets more palatable and to raise the energy content. If your company can’t or won’t custom mill corn into the pellet, I recommend mixing corn with the pellets in the feeders. The good news is that I have sent in more than 30 different samples of deer pellets for lab testing over the last 10 years and in every case, the lab results matched or exceeded what was printed on the bag’s label.

Whole Cottonseed
Probably the second most common form of supplemental feed provided to deer is whole cottonseed. Its popularity however, is likely reduced as a result of concern over a pigment called gossypol that is found in cottonseed. Gossypol reduces intake by non-target animals but may also reduce reproductive rates or even be toxic to deer. Graduate student Sandra Bullock, working at the Caesar Kleberg Wildlife Research Institute at Texas A&M University-Kingsville, recently examined the effects of a diet of varying levels of cottonseed fed to penned whitetails to determine if gossypol should be a concern or not. She found no evidence that overall health or production were compromised by diets of up to 30% cottonseed.

Graduate student Krisan Kelley fed a group of penned bucks a diet of 30 to 40% cottonseed during May through October. She measured sperm motility, testis length and size, and antler density of bucks but could not detect any differences from a control group that was not fed cottonseed. She reported that the amount of gossypol in the blood of study animals returned to near zero within five weeks.

Some of the advantages of cottonseed include: (1) it is unique in that it is relatively high in protein, energy, and fiber; (2) it is less attractive to non-target animals including raccoons, feral hogs, javelina, and birds; (3) it weathers better than deer pellets; and (4) because of items 2 & 3, cottonseed can be distributed in simple, cheap cylinders of chicken wire without the need to place hog panels around sites.

Some of the disadvantages of cottonseed include: (1) it contains gossypol, which at diet levels above 30% may cause negative effects to deer; (2) it only comes in bulk so it is less convenient to distribute to feeder sites; (3) it is less digestible than other forms of supplement; and (4) it is even less palatable than deer pellets, so it is often necessary to mix in something more palatable to train deer to eat it.

Soybeans
Soybeans are probably the next most common form of supplement used for deer, especially in the Midwest where they are more commonly grown by farmers. Some of the advantages of soybeans include: (1) they are easily the highest in protein content of all of the supplements; (2) they are hard coated so they handle moisture better than any of the other supplements except corn; and (3) they can be delivered in 50-pound bags or in bulk by the ton.

Some of the disadvantages of soybeans include: (1) they can be expensive depending on market fluctuations; (2) they are the lowest in digestible energy of the supplements tested; and (3) they are more difficult to get in south Texas because they are grown primarily in the Midwest.

Corn
Corn is most often used as bait instead of as a supplement, but because it is often mixed with other forms of supplement, I am mentioning it in this article. Corn gets a bad “rap” as being nothing more than deer “candy,” especially from people selling deer pellets. This is unfortunate because, as you will read below, corn is the best source of energy available and energy is often more important than anything else, including protein content!

Some of the advantages of corn include: (1) it is easily the most palatable of all of the supplements; (2) it is the highest in digestible energy, which is the most critical dietary item for deer during fall and winter; (3) it is also the most digestible of all of the supplements; (4) it is hard coated so it handles moisture better than any of the other supplements except soybeans; (5) it can be delivered in 50-pound bags or in bulk by the ton; and (6) it is the most widely available of all of the supplements.

Some of the disadvantages include: (1) it is critically low in protein content, so it needs to be mixed with other forms of supplements high in protein content to provide a better balanced ration; (2) it is more attractive to non-target animals than any of the other forms of supplement; and (3) prices may fluctuate widely depending on the market.

Regardless of which type of supplement you chose to provide to your deer herd, you need to monitor consumption. You can then use what you learn from the trends in feed consumption to alter your program to make it more efficient and more effective in the future.

How Many Feeders Are Necessary?
A recent study, by Marc Bartoskewitz and Dr. David Hewitt at Texas A&M University-Kingsville, answers this question better than any previous study. They examined supplemental feed use by free-ranging deer on three south Texas ranches with three different feeder densities. Feed provided at each ranch was laced with the biomarkers tetracycline during summer and chromium oxide during winter. The tetracycline permanently stained the teeth of deer that ate feed laced with this biomarker during summer. Jawbones were collected from all hunter-harvested deer on each ranch and examined under a microscope to determine if the teeth were stained, which determined whether or not the deer ate feed. Chromium is non-digestible so it passes through and can be identified in the feces of deer that ate this laced feed.

Ranch A used free-choice feeders at a density of one feeder per 845 acres. Ranch B used timed-release feeders at a density of one feeder per 1,000 acres. And Ranch C used timed-release feeders at a feeder density of one feeder per 405 acres. Intuitively, you would expect the ranch with the highest feeder density to have the highest percentage of harvested deer marked with the biomarkers. This was not the case. Ranch A, with an intermediate feeder density, had the highest percentage of marked deer, no doubt because free-choice feeders were used instead of timed-release feeders. Free-choice feeders make feed available 24 hours a day, instead of only at 2-3 times per day, as is the case with timed-release feeders.

Another alarming result of the above study was the low overall percentage of deer marked by the biomarkers. Only an average of 32% of the deer harvested on Ranch C, which had the highest feeder density (1 feeder/405 ac.), were marked. It should be obvious to everyone that a much higher feeder density is needed if your goal is to have a population-wide affect on your deer herd. I recommend a minimum of one feeder per 200 acres.

A more recent study by graduate student Ryan Darr and others at the Caesar Kleberg Wildlife Research Institute at Texas A&M University-Kingsville sheds more light on the feeder density question. Ryan used cutting edge technology involving stable isotopes to determine the precise percentage of supplemental feed in a deer’s diet. In this case, all of the deer were confined within 200-acre high-fenced enclosures. Each enclosure had two feeders, so the resulting feeder density was one feeder per 100 acres. At this high feeder density, supplemental feed varied from 11% to 62% of the deer’s diets across all seasons.

What Is The Best Feeder Type?
It should be obvious from the results of the study reported above, that free-choice feeders are the way to go when it comes to choosing a feeder type. The study above found that mature bucks will dominate timed-release feeders to the point that consumption by younger bucks, does, and fawns is dramatically reduced. If the goal behind your feeding program is to increase fawn production and survival, you cannot afford not to use free-choice feeders. Free-choice feeders are also an absolute necessity if you wish to have a population-wide affect on your deer herd.

However, free-choice feeders are not the most efficient at dispensing feed. Edward Kozicky, a visiting scientist at Texas A&M University-Kingsville, conducted a controlled study on the King Ranch to determine which feeder type was most efficient at delivering protein pellets to deer. He tested five different feeder types, three of which were free-choice feeders and two were timed-release feeders.

Kozicky concluded that a trough-type feeder with a timer control was the most efficient because (1) pellets were retained in troughs reducing ground contamination, decreasing consumption by non-target species, and increasing consumption efficiency by deer; (2) deer could be trained to come to a time-controlled feeder during certain times of the day; and (3) the enclosed, time-controlled feeder reduced the amount of feed ruined by moisture because exposure was reduced from 24 hours per day to only a few hours.

Timed-release feeders are also definitely the way to go if your goal is to bait deer in order to increase huntability. Dr. Scott Henke, a professor at Texas A&M University-Kingsville, found that deer could be conditioned to visit a timed-release feeder at whatever time of day the feeder was set to release feed. Henke tested feeders set to release feed at the following times: 2:00 a.m., 10:00 a.m., 4:00 p.m., and 10:00 p.m. He found that deer activity at the feeder sites could be changed to a two-hour interval surrounding whatever time he set the feeder to release feed.

What Is The Best Pen Design?
Unless you have taken extraordinary steps to eliminate feral hogs and javelinas from your ranch, you will have no option but to fence feeder sites with hog panels to exclude these two species from the feed. I prefer larger-sized feeder pens involving 10 or more hog panels. This is because the larger the feeder pen, the more comfortable deer will “feel” accessing the pen. Unfortunately, in an effort to save material costs, I have seen landowners make the mistake of making feeder pens too small. Later, when they discovered deer were not accessing their feeders, they were forced to come back and add panels. As a result, their costs were higher than they would have been if a larger pen had been built in the first place.

If you graze cattle on your ranch, a fence higher than the typical hog panel is often necessary. In fact, if you have cattle, I would build a higher fence around your feeder pens right from the start because once cattle learn they can jump a hog panel, you will not be able to keep them out. You will then have to replace all of the shorter hog panels with taller net wire fence. Obviously, when you have to build the same pen twice, your costs will be much higher.

The fence design I recommend where cattle are grazed and where feral hogs or javelina are also present, may seem extreme at first, but you should never have to come back to rebuild it. This design includes a circular-shaped interior pen made of hog panels. This interior fence will obviously keep feral hogs and javelina out but will still allow deer and cattle access to the feeder. In order to keep cattle out, I recommend a square-shaped four-foot net wire fence be built around the interior hog panel fence. This net wire should be hung high enough so that deer have easy access under the net wire. The feral hogs and javelina that can also get under the net wire will then be denied access because of the interior hog panels.

Circular-shaped feeder pens will save a little on costs because the length of the perimeter is shorter than square-shaped feeder pens of similar size. A circular-shaped pen may also reduce the chances of a subordinant buck getting pinned against the fence by a more dominant buck because there are no corners.

Unfortunately, fences of any type will reduce deer access to the feeders. A small percentage of older-aged bucks will refuse to jump a fence to access a feeder. A larger percentage of young bucks will not access fenced feeder sites because they are subordinant to the older-aged bucks that dominate feeder sites even when free-choice feeders are used. An even higher percentage of adult does will not access fenced feeders for this same reason. And fawns will almost never be found inside a fenced feeder pen.

Graduate student Kris VanBogelen confirmed that hog panels around feeder pens deter fawns in addition to feral hogs and javelinas. Kris is studying over-winter fawn survival through the Caesar Kleberg Wildlife Research Institute at Texas A&M University-Kingsville. As a result, he set up automated trail cameras at permanent feeder sites to monitor fawn access to feeders. Kris had 30 different fawns marked on the Webb County study area with ear tags and ear tag transmitters.

After reviewing nearly 4,000 digital images, he discovered that only three of the 30 tagged fawns known to be present in the area of the feeders ever accessed the feeder pens. Two of these fawns were also the largest of the 30 captured earlier in October. This indicated to Kris that the majority of fawns probably were too small to cross over the hog panels. As anecdotal proof of this, ranch staff found five dead fawns that had become caught in the hog panels on other areas of the ranch.

The two biggest tagged fawns that could cross over the hog panels were only photographed inside the pens on a couple of occasions. This likely indicates that social pressure also deters fawns from accessing fenced feeder pens.

What Is The Alternative?
The difficulty in getting supplement to fawns, adult does, and young bucks creates a big problem that needs to be addressed with future research. These three segments of the deer herd are the most critical to the future of that deer herd. And antler size can never be truly maximized until buck fawns and young bucks also receive unlimited nutrition.

So what can be done to improve access to feed? One alternative is to add whole cottonseed to your feeding program. Whole cottonseed does not require fencing to exclude feral hogs and javelina. Therefore, new feeder sites can be added by installing chicken wire cylinders at additional locations on your ranch. This will accomplish two goals. First, it further increases the density of your feeder sites, improving the distribution and access of feed to your deer herd. Second, it provides a nutritious supplement that does not have the deterrent of hog panels.

Another option is to select alternative sites where you distribute additional supplement in small, scattered piles. I recommend this approach versus placing the feed in non-fenced open troughs because the least dominant deer (your fawns) will still be excluded from these troughs as well. On the other hand, a 50-pound bag of feed can be scattered across 20 to 25 piles along the sendero giving even the least dominant deer full access to feed.

Obviously, this last option requires running the feed route every day or every other day to ensure feed is always present and available. Walk-in hog traps can be installed near these sites to keep feral hog populations in check. A recent study by Chad Bishop and others in Colorado confirmed the benefit of placing feed directly on the ground when they measured significant increases in mule deer fawn production and survival, as well as adult doe survival, as a result of this feeding method.

Additional Feeder Pen Considerations
When and where possible, water should be made available at or near feeder pens. If your budget allows, water lines can be installed to feeder sites so that a permanent source of water is available side-by-side with the feed. Anecdotal evidence indicates that the addition of water will increase feed consumption. If the supplement makes up a higher percentage of the diet as a result, it is likely antler size will be bigger as well.

Feeder sites should be located adjacent to security cover so that deer “feel” more secure accessing the site. Ideally, feeder sites should be cleared within stands of brush to ensure that security cover is available on all sides of the feeder pen. However, feeder pens also need to be located where you have all-weather access so that feeders can be cleaned and unclogged as soon after a rain as possible.

Look for the third installment of this series on supplementation next week on TrophyRoom.com. This final article will highlight many of the potential negatives to consider with regard to supplemental feeding.

Mick Hellickson has a B.S. Degree in Fisheries and Wildlife Management from Iowa State University, an M.S. Degree in Range and Wildlife Management from Texas A&I University and a Ph.D. Degree in Wildlife Management from The University of Georgia. Mick is an internationally recognized expert on white-tailed deer and has given seminars throughout the country on this wildlife species. Most recently he was the Chief Deer Biologist at the world renowned King Ranch in South Texas.

Today we are announcing our first summer video contest of 2010.

Upload your fishing or hunting video to TrophyRoom.com before July 15th, and you are automatically entered to win two $500.00 SmartyPig gift cards. Have an outdoor adventure planned or want to save for new gear from Bass Pro Shops or Cabela’s? Trophy Room and SmartyPig will help you get there. Visit www.smartypig.com to learn more.

Trophy Room is announcing the winners of the Summer Video Challenge on Friday, July 16th *.

Dean Hendrickson, our latest contest winner, really raised the bar with Mine Shaft Mountain Lion Hunt. So when you enter this contest, the only advice we can give you is bring your A game. If you aren’t a Trophy Room member, this is your chance to make it pay. Sign-up today!

^* Bonus points for any video that incorporates a patriotic theme – good luck!

Motivated by not wanting to have this kind of disappointment again, I went to pattern my turkey gun for the first time. The gun at this time had no additional sights, just a front bead, and a full choke. I had killed quite a few turkeys with this same combo before although they were a little closer than this bird. I was shooting 3.5 inch # 5 shot. (Brand is not important here) At 25 yards my pattern was a little bit high (2 inches), but not bad, and plenty good enough to hit his head if I aimed at the neck like I always had. The pattern was also pretty dense. I don’t know the actual numbers as I was not informed on counting pellets at this time in my life. I backed up to 35 yards and shot the paper again. As I got to the target I became very aware of why the turkey flew away – my pattern was even higher at 35 yards and even less dense. There were holes big enough for a green winged teal to fly trough. If I aimed at the middle of the bird’s neck, 3/4 of my pattern would have flown over his head. Out of disbelief I tried again. This time was a little better but not good enough to be confident in. From this point on I have religiously pattered my turkey guns and probably shot 15 times the turkey loads at paper as I have live turkeys. In my opinion it is well worth it in order to not go through the frustration of pulling the trigger and not carrying a bird out.

Patterning a turkey gun can become addictive and way, way too complicated and expensive. My goal is to give you a basic foundation of knowledge and some things to consider to help jump start your patterning process.

The central idea when trying to pattern your turkey hunting gun is to make sure that the combination of the gun, load or shell, and the choke tube, will consistently put a dense enough pattern where you aim it with enough energy to kill a turkey. Changing the choke tube, the ammo, and distance to the target, can all affect the way the gun performs.

When I am searching for the right combination in a new turkey gun I like to start at 25 yards and put out a target with a bulls eye in the center on a sheet of plywood at least 3 feet by 3 feet. Sit in a position similar to the one you plan to shoot from when hunting and try to hit the bullseye. At this range the pattern should be very dense and hopefully be right on the bullseye. If it’s not hitting on the bulls eye try a new target and the same ammo a few times. If the gun consistently hits in a spot different than where you are aiming it probably means that the point of aim is not the point of impact for that gun with that choke tube and/or ammo. If that is the case I would try to shoot different ammo first and see if it hits in the same spot the last type of ammo did, or a new spot altogether. I have had a gun that shot two different brands of ammo through the same choke tube with the center of the pattern being different by 8 inches at 40 yards. 8 inches is a big deal when you are trying to hit a turkeys head and neck, especially if he’s moving. Once you have done this at 25 yards, back up to 40 yards and repeat the process with the ammo, and choke tube you want to shoot and a clean sheet of paper on a clean 3 foot by 3 foot background. The reason I like 3 foot backgrounds is it allows you to see where the densest part of the pattern is really going at 35 and 40 yards, especially if you have point of aim/point of impact issues which are more common than most people realize.

Once you have the dense part of the pattern where you can see it on paper at 40 yards draw a 10 inch circle around the densest part of the pattern and count the holes in that 10 inch circle. The old rule of thumb was always 100 pellets in a 10 inch circle would be adequate to consistently kill a turkey if they hit the right spot, the head and neck. Once you reached a distance where your equipment could no longer do that you had reached the max range of that combo, assuming the pellets had enough energy to do the job when they reached the target. I personally don’t like to have less than 150 pellets in a 10 inch circle at 40 yards for a gun I plan to hunt turkeys with. I don’t expect to shoot any farther than 35 yards and I like to shoot them at half that distance, but it’s nice to know that if I misjudge a 30 yard shot my gun is still capable of making a kill shot. I know guys now who have guns that will shoot factory heavier than lead loads and reach numbers over 250 pellets in a 10 inch circle at 40 yards. Is it overkill? I don’t think there is such a thing as long as the pattern is still open enough to be accurate at 15 yards. With a quality choke and a proper job of sighting the gun in that should not be a problem. I’m currently hunting with two different dedicated turkey guns and one will put 190 – 200 holes in 10 inches at 40 yards and the other will produce 220 – 240 – and that’s good enough for me. Again I think numbers around 150 are good enough but I don’t like much less than that. It hurts too much to pull the trigger and not take a bird home. Once you have found a choke tube and ammo combo that produces good numbers at 40 yards you can correct any point of aim issues you might have. One option is to go to some type of aftermarket adjustable sights. My preference is a red dot. Mount some kind of adjustable sights on the gun and shoot the ammo and choke tube that gave you good numbers at 40 yards, but possibly not exactly where you aimed, this time shoot with the new sights from 20 yards and adjust the sights until they are dead on at 20 yards then again back up to 40 yards and make sure the point of impact now matches point of aim.

The choices in ammo and choke tubes are almost endless with tons of great options. Now the heavier than lead loads allow us to increase pattern density while still keeping pellet energy at ranges much farther than we used to be able to with lead shot. Simply put, if the space inside a shot gun shell is limited, the smaller the pellets are the more they will fit into the space. This means more chances for holes in your 10 inch circle and ultimately turkey’s vitals. When lead was the shot of choice the concern was that pellet energy was lost by going to a smaller pellet and it does no good to hit the target with lots of small pellets if they did not penetrate adequately. That’s why lead #4 and #5 shot was a popular choice. Now you can shoot heavier than lead pellets in a smaller size which gives the potential for more hits, while still retaining energy similar to that of larger lead pellet. If you are skeptical shoot some lead, #5s, #6s, and #7s, at a piece of plywood and see how they penetrate, then shoot some heavier than lead #5s, #6s and #7s at the plywood from the same distance. My results lead me to believe that some of the heavier than lead loads will give you the best combination of pattern density and penetration from your turkey gun.

When you start out the choices to try are overwhelming so here are some of the loads I would try first when patterning a turkey gun. Lead #6 with 2 oz of shot in whatever brand you like. Lots of turkeys have and will be killed with this stuff. Winchester extended range #6 with 2 oz of shot – it’s more expensive than lead, but man does it hit hard! I also would try HEVI-13 # 6 and # 7. I’ve had some great patterns with these. Some of the consistent shooters in turkey choke tubes are brands like Indian Creek, Rhino, Pure Gold, Jelly head, and Carlson. I’m sure there are more, but I have some experience with these. My suggestion is to call the company and tell them what gun you are shooting and see what constriction they suggest. – They will get you close in a hurry.

Have fun this season and remember that if you do the work patterning your gun it should be all but a given that the bird goes down when he’s at 30 and you pull the trigger.

Jay Longhauser is a member of the Zink Calls Pro Staff and is waterfowl guide in Kansas. He hunts over 50 days a year from the prairies of Saskatchewan to the Texas coastline. Jay has over twenty years of hunting experience and a desire to share his experiences with other sportsmen with the hope that it makes their time in the field more enjoyable.

March and April is the primary spawning period for walleye. So during these months and even into May you will encounter pre-spawn, spawn and post-spawn fish. In my experience as a guide and tournament angler I choose to fish for the pre and post-spawn fish – not only are they easier to catch, but it is better for the resource to not target fully spawning fish. A walleye in full blown spawn mode is so focused on spawning that it is very difficult to catch. You literally have to hit them on the head with your presentation. Pre and post-spawn fish are on the hunt looking for food. Bottom line, for the best odds of catching trophy walleye, fish the post-spawn. After a walleye spawns, they rest for a day and then begin feeding to replenish the nutrition they lost – this is when you want to be on the water.

Walleyes are not stupid fish, but they try to take advantage of easy meals. The Great Lakes are an exception to this rule, but other than that the easiest meals of the day come at night for these fish. Walleyes are nocturnal creatures that see as well at night as they do during the day, but that is not the only reason they feed at night. The biggest reason is the poor night vision of their prey. Take Shad for example: Shad are a major food source for walleyes all over the country. When the sun goes down, shad realize they are on the evening menu and do everything in their power to stay alive. They swim towards the water’s surface to gain as much light as possible which helps them see their predators. As shad school on the upper level of the water column walleye take advantage of the smorgasbord of food. The food at night is so plentiful that it isn’t uncommon for these fish to turn into 100% nocturnal feeders. When this happens you have no choice to go where the food and fish are and that means night fishing.

My favorite way to catch big walleyes at night is to troll slow action stick baits over mud flats. Mud flats tend to warm-up a little faster than other structure which is what draws the bait, and the walleyes that follow. I am generally fishing fairly shallow – say 15 feet or less, and typically these fish are operating in the top half of the water column. Because these fish are cruising open water and are not holding on a single piece of structure, I use in-line planer boards to present my baits. Planer boards are helpful because they spread your lines out so your baits can cover more water. Anytime you are dealing with walleyes that are close to the surface you risk spooking them. When your lines are positioned to the side of the boat the odds of spooking surface fish go way down and your odds of producing that fish of a lifetime go way up. (A personal secret of mine is to make sure your presentation is level or above the fish. When walleye are in the pattern of looking up to feed above them, they rarely look down. Make sure they see your bait and fish equal to, or above the fish).

The exception to the rule previously mentioned is fishing the Great Lakes. The difference I see when fishing the Great lakes or any other large body of water is that after the spawn walleye migrate to where they live the remainder of the year. The big difference is these migrating fish tend to feed all day during this time to keep up their energy and replenish their systems to their pre-spawn status. The short answer is there is no need to target these fish at night.

Fishing for trophy spring walleyes is similar to all fishing – do your best to appropriately process every bit of environmental information you gather, adjust your fishing tactics appropriately, and things will start to shape up in your favor with big fish on the end of your line. The short answer on being successful with big spring walleyes is to think like one! Take advantage of what you can with these big fish in the spring, and I promise that you will consistently be putting big fish in the net. In most cases this means keying in on pre and post-spawn food sources. Whether you are fishing during the daytime or after the sun goes down, once you get in that zone it will be worth your time. Trust me.

Zelinsky recently finished filming his first DVD: Ice Fishing: Trout Edition. 77 minutes of Gear, Techniques and Pro Tips. It is available for purchase at www.TightlineOutdoors.com

Nathan Zelinsky fishes over 300 days a year between Professional Walleye Tournaments, guiding through his outfitting business, Tightline Outdoors, fishing with sponsors, product testing and scouting. Zelinsky specializes in monster pike, trophy walleye and huge trout on his home waters of Colorado.

Does supplemental feeding really work, or are all of these ranchers wasting their time and money? If supplemental feeding is beneficial, when is the best time to feed? These are important questions that deserve honest answers. Recently a lot of new, scientific research has been conducted that will help us to answer these questions.

What follows is the first of a three-part series on supplemental feeding. Part I of the series will help you to decide whether or not supplemental feeding is necessary on your ranch. Part II will explain how you can make your supplemental feeding program more effective and finally, Part III will highlight some of the potential negatives associated with supplemental feeding.

The Basics
First, let’s define supplemental feeding. Supplemental feeding is a management tool used to provide nutritious feed to deer, especially during times of stress. Stress periods occur when the quantity or quality of the native forage is in some way lacking. Or, when deer are physiologically stressed due to increased nutrient requirements for re-gaining body mass and growing antlers, in the case of bucks, or for producing and nursing fawns, in the case of does.

Supplemental feeding is often confused with baiting; however, they are two entirely different things. Supplemental feeding is done throughout the year and is used to improve nutrition, while baiting is done only during the fall to improve huntability.

Is Supplemental Feeding Necessary?
No, but maximizing nutrition is absolutely necessary. In fact, maximizing nutrition should be the primary goal for every deer manager. Landowners and managers should take whatever steps are necessary, within the constraints of their budget, to ensure that nutrition is never limiting for their deer herd. Even in the agricultural Midwest nutrition can be limiting. Although corn, soybeans, oats, and alfalfa are planted over 30-90% of the landscape in the “breadbasket” of the U.S., nutrition can be limiting during late winter after crops have been harvested, temperatures have dropped, and snow blankets the ground.

Nutrition can be improved in three ways. Managers can provide supplement, manipulate the native habitat, or plant food plots. Unfortunately, rainfall is a necessity for both native habitat manipulation and food plots to be effective, which is why I feel that an intensive supplemental feeding program is the single most important management tool available. An intensive, year-round supplemental feeding program will do more to improve your deer herd than any other management practice. The advantage of supplemental feeding is that feed can be provided on a constant basis, even as rainfall and the resultant habitat’s carrying capacity vary. After all, supplemental feed is like “rain in a bag.”

Does Supplemental Feeding Improve Antler Size?
Supplemental feeding is necessary if you wish to maximize the antler growth of bucks on your ranch. Antler size is directly related to nutrition. If nutrition is limiting during any time of the year, especially during January-August, full antler growth potential will not be realized.

One of the first scientific studies to examine the effects of supplemental feeding was conducted by French and his co-workers in the early 1950’s. They found that buck fawns fed a high, 13-16% protein diet from weaning until age one-and-a-half grew larger antlers than buck fawns fed a low protein diet (only 5-10% protein).

Two Michigan researchers, John Ozoga and Louis Verme, conducted a large-scale supplemental feeding study in the late 1970’s. These researchers found that supplementation increased both antler size and body growth and that deer matured earlier. Donnie Harmel, John Williams, and Bill Armstrong, with the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department’s Kerr Wildlife Management Area, fed two-and-a-half-year-old bucks a 16% protein diet and found that their antler mass was almost twice that of another group of two-and-a-half-year-old bucks fed a restricted 8% protein diet.

A More Recent South Texas Study
A more recent study was conducted on supplementation and antler growth by graduate student Marc Bartoskewitz and his major advisor Dr. David Hewitt. These two researchers conducted the study on three south Texas ranches through the Ceasar Kleberg Wildlife Research Institute at Texas A&M University-Kingsville. Feed provided at each ranch was laced with the biomarkers tetracycline during summer and chromium oxide during winter. The tetracycline permanently stained the teeth of deer that ate feed. Jawbones were collected from all hunter-harvested deer on each ranch and examined under a microscope to determine if the teeth were stained, which determined whether or not the deer ate feed. Chromium is non-digestible so it passes through and can be identified in the feces of deer that ate this laced feed. As a result, feces were also collected from harvested deer to examine for the presence of chromium.

85 bucks and 52 does were harvested and examined on Ranch A. Only 17 bucks and 85 does were examined on Ranch B. And 78 bucks and 61 does were examined on Ranch C. Supplemental feeding resulted in significantly larger antlers for two, three, and five-year-old bucks on Ranch A where gross Boone and Crockett Club (BCC) scores were an average of 15% larger. Four-year-old bucks on feed gross scored an average of 112 inches versus 100 inches for non-fed bucks, but due to small sample sizes this difference was not significant. Buck harvest sample sizes were too low on Ranch B to allow for a valid comparison. On Ranch C, harvested bucks on feed showed a trend toward larger antler size, but differences were not statistically significant.

Unfortunately, the density of feeders on all three ranches was relatively low, varying from one feeder per 405 acres on Ranch C, to one feeder per 845 acres on Ranch A, and one feeder per 1,000 acres on Ranch B. Feeder style also likely resulted in reduced use of feed because only Ranch A feeders were “free choice.” Feeder types for Ranches B and C were time release and programmed to provide feed only in the mornings and evenings.

When the results for all three ranches were combined, an interesting trend developed in the use of feed by buck age class. Only around 25% of yearling bucks that were sampled had evidence of eating the laced feed. Feed use then increased as buck age increased, reaching a peak for seven-year-old bucks with more than 60% showing evidence of eating supplemental feed. No trends in doe age classes were evident, although does were much less likely to consume feed (0 to 15% of does sampled were marked).

Does Supplemental Feeding Improve Fawn Production Or Survival?
Supplemental feeding is mandatory if you wish to maximize the number of deer on your ranch. Fawn production and survival, much like antler growth, are directly related to nutrition. If nutrition is limiting for pregnant does, especially late in pregnancy (May-July), fawn production will be reduced. If nutrition is limiting for lactating does during July-September, fawn survival will also be negatively affected.

The first scientific study on supplemental feeding in south Texas, by Bob Zaiglin and Dr. Charles DeYoung at Texas A&I University (now Texas A&M University-Kingsville), clearly showed the positive effects a supplemental feeding program can have on fawn crops. The study was conducted on the Zachry Blanco Ranch south of Laredo in Webb County during 1976 and 1977.

These researchers divided the ranch in half by using one pasture as the control area where supplemental feed was not provided. The second pasture served as the treatment area. Four feeder sites were established in this pasture and supplemental feed was provided from February, 1976 through January, 1977. The second year of the study, the feeders were moved to the other pasture to reverse the control and treatment areas.

During helicopter surveys in October of each year, they counted a significantly higher ratio of fawns in the supplementally-fed pastures (0.39 fawns per doe in the supplemented pasture vs. 0.20 in the control pasture during 1976 and 0.24 fawns per doe in the supplemented pasture vs. 0.08 in the control pasture during 1977). The researchers concluded that (1) supplemental feeding significantly increased fawn survival; (2) deer ate 0.55 pounds of supplemental feed per minute; (3) bucks fed for an average of 2.4 minutes (1.3 lbs.) per visit; and (4) does fed an average of 2.9 minutes (1.6 lbs.) per visit.

Graduate student Mark Richman and his co-workers and professors at the Caesar Kleberg Wildlife Research Institute at Texas A&M University-Kingsville studied the effects of supplemental feeding on fawn weights. They weighed 42 fawns contained within both supplementally-fed and non-fed 200-acre enclosures. The researchers found that supplemental feeding resulted in fawn weights that were 14 to 47% higher than weights of fawns from enclosures where supplement was not provided. Interestingly, fawn weights were lowest in the enclosure with the highest deer density and highest in the enclosure with the lowest deer density.

The two Michigan researchers mentioned above, John Ozoga and Louis Verme, also found that supplementation greatly increased deer numbers, by improving both fawn production and survival, and by increasing buck survival during the post-rut.

Feeding Fawns and Does
Unfortunately, fawn production and survival could no doubt be further improved with supplementation if it were easier to get feed to fawns and does. At typical feeder densities of around one feeder per 200 to 500 acres, few if any fawns will access feeder sites. This is especially true if the feeder sites are fenced to exclude feral hogs and javelinas. Relatively few does will access these sites as well if timed-release feeders are used due to buck dominance at
this style of feeder.

A recent study in Colorado involving mule deer supports the above concerns. Chad Bishop and his co-workers fed manufactured protein pellets to deer during winter and spring only, by placing the pellets directly on the ground in two-to-three-pound piles spread out along primitive roads within the study area. They reported that survival rates of fetuses and newborn fawns, overwinter survival of older-aged fawns, and adult doe survival all increased as a result of the supplemental feeding.

When Is The Best Time To Feed?
The short answer, in south Texas at least, is that supplemental feed should be provided year-round. A supplemental feeding program should be designed to cover two different stress periods. The first stress period is based on the native habitat and occurs whenever the quantity or quality of the native forage is in some way lacking. Results of deer carrying capacity studies at Texas A&M University-Kingsville indicate that late summer is the most stressful time of the year for deer in south Texas. These researchers found that the carrying capacity of the habitat reaches its low point, or “bottleneck,” during July and August. In other words, the native habitat will support only a certain number of deer. This “maximum” number of deer is set by the number that can be supported when the habitat reaches its lowest nutritional point, which is late summer. Therefore, this two month period is a critical time to provide supplemental feed.

The study conducted by Zaiglin and DeYoung verified the importance of supplemental feeding during late summer, which is when they found that consumption peaked. In their study, supplemental feed consumption was also inversely related to the crude protein levels of the native habitat. Larry Varner, Lytle Blankenship, and Greg Lynch collected and analyzed the nutritive content of 26 different plant species known to be eaten by deer on the Chaparral Wildlife Management Area. They found that crude protein levels were highest in spring, at intermediate levels during fall and winter, and at lowest levels during summer. In a study conducted on the Welder Wildlife Refuge, Thadis Box found that the two periods of lowest forage production were winter (January-February) and late summer (July-September).

Based on the above, ranchers and managers in south Texas should provide supplement during January through February and again during July through September in order to cover the two times of the year when the native vegetation is most likely to be lacking in quantity or quality. Obviously, droughts can also result in less than optimum forage conditions at other times. Therefore, your supplemental feeding program should include periods of drought as well.

The second stress period is based on the deer themselves and occurs when deer are physiologically stressed due to increased nutrient requirements. In the case of bucks, this occurs at two different times of the year. The first period is the post-rut (January-March) when bucks are reeling from the rigors of the rut and trying to recover the 25-35% of body weight they lost while chasing does. Previous telemetry research through Texas A&M University-Kingsville indicates that nearly 80% of all buck mortalities occur during the post-rut. Obviously, the post-rut period is a very stressful time for bucks. The second period of physiological stress for bucks occurs when they are growing antlers (March-August). If your goal is to maximize antler growth, then as a minimum, you should provide supplementation during January-August.

The most physiologically stressful time for does occurs when they are pregnant (January-July) and later when they are nursing fawns (July-September). If one of your goals is to increase fawn production and survival, than supplementation should be continued through September.

It also takes time to get deer used to eating supplemental feed, especially the first year that the feeding program is initiated. If managers are not feeding on a year-round basis, they should begin supplemental feeding at least several weeks before the period they wish to cover with supplementation. In order to cover all of the different critical months for deer of both sexes, as a minimum, supplementation should be provided from December through September.

If a rancher or manager cannot afford to provide supplement year-round, than the “best” time not to provide supplemental feed is probably during late September through early December. The pre-rut and rut are possible times to stop supplementation because bucks at this time of the year greatly reduce feed intake in their endless pursuit of does. In fact, penned studies have shown that even when bucks are individually isolated in small pens, they will still voluntarily restrain from eating feed that is placed into their pen during the rut!

Mick Hellickson is the Chief Deer Biologist at the world renowned King Ranch in South Texas. He has a B.S. Degree in Fisheries and Wildlife Management from Iowa State University, an M.S. Degree in Range and Wildlife Management from Texas A&I University and a Ph.D. Degree in Wildlife Management from The University of Georgia. Mick is an internationally recognized expert on white-tailed deer and has given seminars throughout the country on this wildlife species.

My best days hunting snows numbers wise have been in Canada in early October. These birds are migrating south from their nesting grounds and are encountering agriculture for the first time in several months, which means as far as snows go, they are a lay-up. If I spent several months living in the Arctic Circle and Boreal Forest, I would be excited about feeding in grain fields, too. It only gets tougher to hunt them from there as the season wears on and birds move farther south.

Snow geese generally migrate in big flocks. I don’t know why, but they appear to subscribe to the “strength in numbers” argument when migrating. Seeing a group of 1000+ snows isn’t uncommon in both the fall and spring. They also live a long time. I know hunters who have killed banded snows that were 21 years old. This means you typically have a bunch of old, wise birds that have been hunted from late August through May for many years. This can equate to difficult decoying conditions – but not always. This is where the juvenile snow goose comes into play. “Juvies” are a snow goose hunter’s best friend. When you watch videos and see pictures of hunters with mounds of white geese about the size of a cape buffalo, most often 80% percent of these birds are juvies. Juvies make for great pictures and even better videos.

Unfortunately, it can be difficult to catch a hot juvie shoot in the spring. Some years are better than others for nesting conditions with the general thought being a strong nesting year equals higher numbers of juvies during hunting season. Some very good hunters I know also experience better juvie hunts later in the spring season. The conventional wisdom is adult snow geese are first to migrate because they want to get back to their nesting grounds to begin laying eggs, and the juvies follow later. In theory, this means if you catch the tail end of a snow goose migration you will be hunting mostly juvies. Personally, I haven’t had that experience yet, so I’m on the fence. We hunted March 19 -21st this year in NW Nebraska and every bird we killed was an adult snow. I’m not a biologist, so this is where my juvie commentary ends.

My personal opinion on hunting birds that could be over 20 years old and have been hunted for 7 or 8 months straight is that you need to ace everything in your control to have a good shoot. This is what I do:

• Full body decoys work better than wind socks, silhouettes, or any other hybrid decoy. I own and have hunted over all of them. Full bodies make a huge difference.
• Concentrate your decoy spread on the upwind side. Snows work vertically and typically will try to land on the upwind side of your spread. Set up your decoys and blind(s) accordingly.
• When using e-callers, use a minimum of 4 speakers and place them in logical areas for your spread’s set-up. Try to read the birds and experiment with volume and recording style as the birds get closer.
• Don’t be afraid to try new things. Try using flyer decoys that imitate landing birds or rotary machines. I also saw a picture this year of a spread where snow/blue wings from actual birds were tacked onto full bodies and it looked really good – a poor man’s “stuffer”, if you will.
• Blinding is huge – you have big numbers of birds looking at you and your spread and it is paramount that you nail your blinding scenario.
• Try to plan your hunt around the snow line (the line of snow cover that is slowly creeping north as spring weather turns warmer: http://www.rap.ucar.edu/weather/surface/snowNESDISus.gif). South winds are typically what you want too – although I’ve seen snows migrate North in EVERY condition imaginable.

• Hunt all day.

I’m also a gambler when it comes to snows – I count on flight days where I typically hunt them in NW Nebraska. It’s a feast or famine hunt. The maddening thing for me is even when it is “on”, there is little rhyme or reason as to why certain groups of migrators we pull off of the N. Platte work us and others don’t even give us a sniff. Some flocks finish, but most don’t. That’s spring snow geese. But on the special days when it all comes together the way it’s supposed to, there’s nothing better. Pulling a group of migrators from nose-bleed altitude and getting them feet down in your spread is what it’s all about. That’s what keeps me coming back spring after spring.

If experienced waterfowlers have that many questions I thought it would be a good time to seek advice from someone who knows snow geese. Luckily, I know a guy who is in the blind for about 4,000 snow goose kills each spring.

Tony Vandemore is a co-owner of Habitat Flats Guide service in Missouri. He has put in the time and effort to learn how to consistently decoy snow geese. During the spring season alone he spends an average of thirty days in the field dedicated to hunting snows, and over the last four seasons their groups have averaged over 4,000 snow goose kills over decoys each spring. Those are big numbers, especially when you consider that many guys are at a loss of where to begin. Keep in mind that these are decoying birds. I’ve seen the pictures and videos, and heard from guys that have gone on the hunts; Tony has a great reputation for being able to get these birds in as tight as anyone for some excellent shooting.

I asked Tony what advice he would give to the guys who hunt Canada geese and ducks regularly, but want to get into hunting snows and aren’t sure where to start. Here’s what he had to say:

• Scouting is absolutely crucial when hunting snows, I believe even more so than Canadas and ducks. If you are just starting, try to get in the field they are using everyday.
• Snows typically fly in larger flocks, so you have that many more eyes looking for you… concealment is very important! Go over board on stubbing the blinds.
• The learning curve with snows seems to be longer than that of Canadas and ducks. If you can, talk with some folks who hunt snow geese regularly and pick their brains.
• Snow goose hunting is somewhat of a numbers game; if you don’t have a lot of decoys to start with, try to combine with other friends to get a larger spread.
• Snow geese work different than almost all other types of waterfowl, patience is a virtue. Don’t get too trigger happy, just let them do their thing and give you the best look they are going to.
• As a general rule, if birds are sailing in on cupped wings, when they start pumping their wings it’s over… if they are in range you better be shooting.
• Try to get a caller that not only has good volume to it, but good clarity as well.
• Don’t get discouraged…snow geese are the toughest of all waterfowl to kill consistently and they are extremely humbling. With that being said, most of the birds on the front part of the migration are adults and can be tougher to decoy. Don’t burn yourself out too early as the juveniles bring up the tail of the migration and are usually much easier to decoy!

• Watch the weather and hunt those days that look like they might be migration days when you can.

Vandemore described hunting spring snows as, “one of the pinnacles of the waterfowling world. Few things are as pretty as a huge tornado of snow geese over your head working their way into the spread.” He went on to say that, “Snows are extremely gregarious by nature and often travel in very large flocks which can make them tougher to hunt. However, just because they are different from canadas and ducks doesn’t mean you can’t kill them consistently. As a new comer to the snow goose world my biggest piece of advice would be to put in the extra effort. Whether that means scouting a little harder to find the best field, taking out a few more decoys, etc; rarely can you get away with half an effort while snow goose hunting.”

He also emphasized the importance of scouting. “When scouting try to find not only a field they are in, but also a field that is a in a good traffic area with lots of other feeding fields around it. Pay attention to what the birds are doing while they are in the field. Are they sitting tight? Are they racing around in search for food? Are they spread across the whole field or only in certain areas? The more you can try to mimic those live birds in the field, the more successful you will be at day’s end!”

When it all comes together, hunting snows makes for some of the most exciting hunting in waterfowling. You can see some of these action packed hunts in Tony’s latest DVD, F5 Buried in Snows. It’s another great way to shorten the learning curve and get an idea of what you may be jumping into.

Jay Longhauser is a member of the Zink Calls Pro Staff and is waterfowl guide in Kansas. He hunts over 50 days a year from the prairies of Saskatchewan to the Texas coastline. Jay has over twenty years of hunting experience and a desire to share his experiences with other sportsmen with the hope that it makes their time in the field more enjoyable.

The chase scene left little doubt that the doe was in heat and the bucks were trying to take advantage of the opportunity. What was unusual however was the time of the year that this occurred – late February! Out of curiosity, I turned the truck around to try to catch up to the breeding group.

I reached the other side of the brush motte just in time to see the three deer disappear into a second brush clump. By this time, the second buck had caught up to the first buck and doe. I then drove around the second motte, but the deer were nowhere in sight. As I slowly drove between the motte and a fence bordering the pasture, the doe came running out of the motte. She quickly jumped the fence and headed away from me. Seconds later, the first mature buck I had seen appeared. He crossed in front of me and jumped the fence. Then a third antlerless deer burst out of the motte and jumped the fence behind the doe and first buck.

At first sight, I assumed this third antlerless deer was a doe. However, after watching the deer cross in front of me, I recognized that it wasn’t a doe at all, but the second mature buck – he had shed both of his antlers somewhere in the second motte! Obviously, when the second buck caught up to the first buck, a fight ensued between the two bucks. The second buck then had the misfortune of getting his antlers jarred loose during the scuffle that must have occurred while they were out of sight.

After I realized what must have happened, I jumped out of the truck and ran into the motte searching the ground for the buck’s shed antlers. Amazingly, within minutes I found both antlers, one shed was almost laying on top of the other! Later that summer, I was lucky enough to find a third shed antler from this same buck from the previous year – what a great brush country treasure to go with the matched set!

A Great Hobby

Interest in shed antler hunting is growing by leaps and bounds. Amazingly, it is now possible to book package hunts in the upper Midwest and Canada solely for hunting shed antlers. Outfitters provide lodging, meals, and several likely areas for clients to hunt for shed antlers. Some shed hunting enthusiasts are paying upwards of $3,000 for a week of guided shed hunting!

Shed antler hunting is growing in popularity because the excitement of finding the next shed never fades. Shed hunting is similar to treasure hunting or hunting for arrowheads and is great exercise. Kids of all ages can also take part because no hunting licenses or permits are required. The inherent dangers of kids handling guns is also non-existent, making antler hunting an activity for the whole family and a great way to get kids started in outdoor activities.

Why Hunt For Sheds?

Shed antler hunting provides an excellent opportunity to scout before the next deer season. Often times, deer trails, scrapes, and rubs from the previous fall are still visible. While searching for sheds, hunters can try to decipher deer movement patterns based on these signs at a more relaxed pace. In addition, the extra time spent in the brush will help to further familiarize the hunter with his favorite haunt. Potential leases and new hunting areas can also be scouted while hunting for sheds.

Most trophy deer hunters that I know are also avid shed antler hunters. When a large shed is found, the hunter knows that a big buck is in the general area. Further scouting can narrow down the best areas to ambush the buck that dropped the shed. If a high number of sheds are found, the hunter knows that a lot of bucks are in the area. Hunters interested in antler scores can also measure any sheds that are found to get a more accurate idea of what the buck’s rack would have measured.

Shed antlers also provide clues to the age of the buck that cast the antler. Generally, the heavier the antler, the older the buck. A shed antler with a massive beam and base was no doubt dropped by a mature buck. An antler with average mass measurements was likely cast by a middle-aged buck, while a thin diameter antler most likely came from a young buck. It is also suspected that beam circumference in relation to burr circumference indicates age. A shed with a beam circumference at the base noticeably smaller than the burr circumference, likely came from a young buck. In most cases, by the time a buck reaches maturity (6.5+ years old), the beam circumference has increased to the point that it is only slightly less than the circumference around the burr.

Turkey hunters can search for shed antlers as they look for roosting sites and strutting areas. During turkey season, hunters can look for shed antlers as they move from one calling area to the next area. Shed antler hunters can also search for mushrooms or arrowheads while shed hunting as well. Even without finding any sheds or other treasures, the exercise will help to physically prepare hunters for the upcoming season. Walking is also now considered one of the better forms of cardiovascular exercise.

Many times while hunting for shed antlers, I have found complete racks and skulls from bucks that died. These remains not only make unique trophies but can provide the hunter or landowner with information regarding buck survival and mortality. Occasionally, the cause of death can even be determined from the remains.

When Is The Best Time?

Shed antler hunting is a past time that can be enjoyed anytime of the year. However, in most areas of the U.S., shed hunting is most productive during spring, immediately after bucks have dropped their antlers. If hunters in these areas wait until summer, most of the sheds will have already disappeared. Over most of the whitetail’s range, rodents quickly chew and gnaw antlers to nothing in an effort to obtain the minerals calcium and phosphorous. Spring is also a good time for shed hunting because all of the competing hunting seasons have closed.

In arid areas such as south Texas, shed antler hunting is effective year around because the lack of rainfall allows antlers to persist for longer periods. Year-round shed hunting is also productive in south Texas because populations of rats and mice are much lower due to high coyote densities. Squirrels and porcupines, additional shed antler “enemies,” are almost non-existent as well because of a lack of trees.

In south Texas, winter is the best season of the year to find shed antlers. During winter, all of the antlers dropped the previous spring have turned white from bleaching in the sun. And, as any novice shed hunter quickly learns, a bleached-out antler is a lot easier to spot than a freshly shed, dark-colored antler. Another wintertime advantage is that most of the vegetation has died back, exposing shed antlers that were previously obscured from view. Also during winter, the majority of the brush species found in south Texas have lost their leaves. After leaf drop, hunters are better able to peer through layers of brush in search of cast antlers.

Summer and times of drought during any season can also be good times to search for south Texas sheds because of a lack of ground vegetation. Springtime, normally the wettest time of the year in south Texas, can be the most difficult time to look for sheds if the area you hunt has received above-normal amounts of rainfall. This “green-up” period results in a tremendous amount of vegetation that can hide even the largest shed antlers from sight.

Techniques For Finding Sheds

A new shed antler hunting technique is getting even more people involved in this non-consumptive sport. The technique, called the “shed drive,” is similar to the deer drive hunting technique so popular in the Midwest. The shed drive involves organizing your partners in a line with each member evenly spaced across the line at the edge of the area to be searched. Drive members then walk through the area, picking up sheds along the way, until everyone meets at the opposite end of the area (where you have hopefully previously left a vehicle for transport back to the starting point!). This technique is growing in popularity because of the camaraderie shared between members and because all members can take part in the excitement when each member finds a shed. During shed drives, hunting becomes a team effort, strengthening friendships and providing for hours of free entertainment and lasting memories.

Another new shed antler hunting technique is also becoming more popular. This additional technique involves “man’s best friend.” It seems the technique was discovered by shed hunters who routinely brought their dogs with them when they hunted sheds. They soon learned that the dogs could find shed antlers as well. Evidently, the dogs first learned to find sheds by site. Eventually, after enough antlers were found, the dogs were able to find sheds by smell alone. Dogs have since been trained to find sheds, much like Border Patrol agents train dogs to sniff-out drugs.

The construction of a shed antler trap is another relatively new technique that can be used to increase the number of sheds you find. Shed antler traps are simple, easy to construct, inexpensive, and best of all, effective. Trap designs vary, but they all involve hanging grid fence or hog panels on T-posts in the figure of a “V” or “W.” Typically, the fence is hung with the bottom strand of wire eight to ten inches off the ground. Corn, the bait used to “set” the trap, is then spread underneath the fence, with the highest concentrations of corn placed at the inside corners. Once the trap is set, you simply return every couple of days to remove shed antlers and re-bait the trap.

Hunting shed antlers from horseback is yet another excellent technique for finding sheds. This technique gives the rider many advantages over hunting sheds on foot. One advantage is being able to see further into the brush. Horses can also travel much faster, which means that more area can be covered. Hunters themselves will not tire nearly as fast on horseback, allowing more time to be spent hunting shed antlers as well.

Additional Tips For Finding Sheds

During the twelve years that I have lived in south Texas, I estimate that I have been fortunate enough to find more than 1,000 different shed antlers. Needless to say, I enjoy shed hunting! Although it is difficult to predict the best areas for finding sheds, without actually getting out and covering an area on foot, I have learned a few tricks.

By far the best way to find shed antlers is to walk areas that have recently been burned. Shed antler hunting over recently burned areas can be phenomenal – I have experienced times when I found more sheds than I could carry with two arms! After finding a shed antler, it’s often possible to spot the next shed by simply stopping for a moment and searching the horizon from that same spot. Obviously, sheds are easier to find in burned areas because most of the vegetation previously hiding the antlers from sight was removed by the fire. Unusually large, bleached sheds stand out like a “sore thumb” in areas that have been burned.

I prefer to hunt for shed antlers in areas near water. Creek bottoms and draws are especially productive. Creek bottoms also seem to be the best locations for finding skulls and other remains. I am sure that some skulls are washed into the creek bottom during heavy rains. But I also think that coyotes often drag dead bucks into the creek bottom so that they can remain hidden while they scavenge the remains. Areas near stock tanks are excellent locations to find shed antlers during drought years.

Several years ago, two friends and I were walking a creek bottom when one of the friends noticed what appeared to be an antler tine protruding from the creek bed. We stopped to look closer and noticed a second tine tip above the sediment about 22 inches away from the first tine. Could this be a rack buried in the creek bed?

We had to find out so we returned to the truck for some tools. After spending nearly two hours using screwdrivers (we didn’t have a shovel!) to dig out a hole in the creek bed three feet deep and two feet wide, we uncovered a rack of enormous proportions. The non-typical rack had 17 points, a 22-inch inside spread, and four tines over 10 inches in length. The gross Boone and Crockett Club score of the rack was an amazing 185-6/8 inches!

Bedding areas are another “hotbed” for sheds. Recent research on buck activity indicates that bucks are only active about 50% of the day. This means that bucks spend the other half of each day bedded and not active. Bedding areas are good shed hunting areas simply because of the large amount of time bucks spend here. In south Texas, bucks seem to choose bedding areas based more on shade cover and thermoregulatory needs than anything else. Typically, bucks in this region bed on the shady side of a tree (often a mesquite), under the canopy. Often, sites are selected that have little or no ground vegetation, allowing for more breeze to reach the bedded buck.

Feeding areas are another excellent source for shed antlers. If the property that you hunt has a farm field or food plot, be sure to thoroughly inspect it for shed antlers. Although bucks may spend the majority of their day bedded and inactive, many hours are also spent feeding. Trails connecting bedding and feeding areas are also likely areas for sheds.

Fence lines are yet another location to look for shed antlers. Occasionally, when bucks jolt against the ground after jumping a fence, one of the antlers will break free. Antlers are also knocked loose when bucks try to go under and between fence wires.

Obviously, additional areas to search for sheds include areas where big bucks were previously spotted. However, recent telemetry research has shown that many bucks shift home ranges during the breeding season. One radio-collared buck that I had the opportunity to track while working toward a Ph.D. degree, illustrated this movement behavior the best. This particular middle-aged buck could be found nine months out of the year in the same, fairly small area each day. But in November, he shifted to a totally different area and did not return to his original home range until after the rut was nearly complete in January. Obviously then, areas where bucks were sighted during the breeding season may not necessarily be the best areas to look for shed antlers – those bucks may have moved to a different area after the rut.

Now that “cabin fever” has set in, do something to break the monotony by going on a shed hunt. Try organizing a shed drive with your hunting buddies. Or, take your kids “treasure” hunting in the brush country, its great exercise and at times, very exciting. Best of all, the bigger the shed, the easier it is to find!

Mick Hellickson is the Chief Deer Biologist at the world renowned King Ranch in South Texas. He has a B.S. Degree in Fisheries and Wildlife Management from Iowa State University, an M.S. Degree in Range and Wildlife Management from Texas A&I University and a Ph.D. Degree in Wildlife Management from The University of Georgia. Mick is an internationally recognized expert on white-tailed deer and has given seminars throughout the country on this wildlife species.

Barracuda are often found on the flats as solitary residents atop patches of white sand, where they use the reflected heat from the light bottom to warm up during fall and winter cold fronts. Their affinity for these white sand holes means that on a cold day they may represent the only game fish available to flats anglers. In deeper water, especially around sub-surface structure, they appear as a pack, a group of predators there for the same reason but operating independently. They do not hunt as a school; a baitfish in front of a group of barracuda (not a school, the technical definition of a group of these fish is a battery) will be attacked by all and usually eaten by the largest and fastest in the group. They jump when hooked, shake their heads, and have a top speed that rivals all but the fastest pelagic predators. In fact as game fish go, barracuda are top-notch quarry for any angler—on a fly rod, they become one of the most brilliant opponents I’ve had the pleasure of pursuing. It is worth noting that in addition to their role as a predator, they are the preferred bait for anglers targeting sharks—an attribute that is responsible for a relatively serious reduction of their overall population in the Keys.

Much of the reason people are wary of (and often frightened by) the barracuda is explained in their appearance, which might be described as scrappy, rough and intimidating. Recreational divers often see them parked, their large eyes set to follow a new trespasser in their environment as their blotchy silver-and-black scaled body follows behind their head and elongated set of jaws. Completing the effect is a set of teeth designed to cut, and which do so with astonishing speed and precision. Since the barracuda often makes a living in open water and therefore needs to capitalize on every available food source, it often needs to reduce large prey to pieces that can be swallowed, and its teeth are custom made for the job. They are so large and unruly, in fact, that the opposing jaw has evolved concave sockets, literally holes in their mouth designed to ensconce the teeth from the opposite jaw, simply in order for it to close. It is easy to see why a diver, confronted with the physical appearance of this predator, would feel like prey.

Once, I threw a 7 pound little tunny (a small tuna) directly at the head of a large ‘cuda that had been harassing our boat for over an hour. I had imagined I would spook the predator and allow the tunny time to escape; instead, I watched with astonishment (and admiration, I must admit) as it tracked the incoming projectile, opened it’s mouth, and promptly bit it in two as it landed. The last thing I saw before we decided to leave was the large barracuda circling around the cloud of blood, looking for the other half of its meal. Among the teeth, I swear I saw a smile. And that experience says a lot about why the barracuda is such an indelible personality, such a welcome member of the popular vernacular: they represent a pinnacle of evolutionary perfection that does exactly what it was designed to do: intimidate, chase, and effectively prey with apparent zeal. Of course, no fish actually feels these things—to describe their predation as zealous is an anthropomorphization in the truest sense of the word—yet their expressive faces, large eyes, and demented grin almost beg for us to furnish an emotional commentary to go along with their appearance and behavior. It is not a lack of sensitivity that the barracuda suffers from but an apparent sociopathy, an absence of motivation which we will always try to fill with a reputation that reflects perhaps more on us than the barracuda.

Nathaniel Linville holds three IGFA saltwater fly rod records and is the owner of Key West’s premier fly shop, The Angling Company (www.theanglingcompany.com). When he isn’t on location sharing all-things angling at The Angling Company, he can be found on the water with a fly rod in his hand pursuing Key West’s game fish.

With education and improved tactics your days ice fishing can be filled with more numbers and bigger catches.

Before covering today’s premier ice fishing equipment, it is important to think about the basics of where to fish; There is no magic system that says where fish are biting. There is, however, a rule I use that is just as good. It's called the three “W’s”. Ask yourself these three questions:  “What are the fish feeding on?” “Where are they feeding?” And, “what time are they feeding?”  If you can answer these three questions you are left with an idea of where the fish are, what they are feeding on and when it’s best to fish for them.  For example, consider a high mountain lake that is enriched with a lot of weed growth.  Many of these lakes offer great habitat for fresh water shrimp called scuds.  You can bet that any lake that has scuds in it that scuds are a trout’s primary food source.  We’ve answered the first question. The next question is “where?” You can guarantee that wherever the food is, this is where the trout are.  Scuds need a few things to live: sunlight, oxygen and food.  All of these things are prevalent in shallow weed areas.  The sun can penetrate ice in shallow water which means bottom weed growth. Weed growth provides oxygen and oxygen combined with sun light produce food for scuds.  What does this mean? It means that shallow weed beds are the key areas for your food source.  Question answered. The final question wraps it all together - “when?” Think about when the food source is most prevalent. We know scuds need sunlight and we also know they feed when the sun is penetrating the ice.  During a long dark night scuds do nothing but sit tight on the weeds waiting for morning sunlight.  When sun light starts shining on the ice scuds start to become active in weed pockets. This is when scuds are most accessible as a food source to trout. Put those three scenarios together and you have a location, when the best fishing takes place and what food source to imitate while fishing. Thinking this way and executing this plan is the difference between fishing and catching.

Now combine this mindset with today's technology.  There are unbelievable maps available for most lakes and they usually come with GPS coordinates. Take out a map and look for the prime weed areas and once you find the one you want to fish, transfer the coordinates from the map onto a hand held GPS and you can walk right to your spot. Today's hand held GPS's are very accurate and inexpensive.  This beats the days of triangulation and spending all day looking for prime fishing spots.

Once you are on these premier fishing spots there are a few other pieces of equipment that can help improve your success on ice. A shelter is my first piece of equipment.  It keeps you warm and alert which allows you to change your approach when necessary instead of fighting the elements.  A shelter also darkens the hole so you can see into the water and blocks sun light from beaming down your hole causing the “flash light” effect, which scares fish.  Another important tool to use while ice fishing is a flasher graph.  Flashers, like a Vexilar, do multiple things. They tell you depth and also display bottom structure as well as allow you to see fish.  By watching fish on the graph you get an idea of what the fish are doing and how to present your bait to them.

Executing the combination of a theory and a plan and mixing it with today's advanced tackle, you're left with the best odds ever to be successful ice fishing.  I have learned over the past 10 years that location and a good set-up is far more important than the bait you use.  Fish that are in the middle of a major feed are far easier to catch than fish not in feeding mode. So before you hit the ice again spend some time planning and prepping for your trip.  Answer the three “W's” and go on the ice with confidence.

Zelinsky recently finished filming his first DVD: Ice Fishing: Trout Edition.  77 minutes of Gear, Techniques and Pro Tips. It is available for purchase at www.TightlineOutdoors.com

Nathan Zelinsky fishes over 300 days a year between Professional Walleye Tournaments, guiding through his outfitting business, Tightline Outdoors, fishing with sponsors, product testing and scouting. Zelinsky specializes in monster pike, trophy walleye and huge trout on his home waters of Colorado.

This is Trophy Room’s late winter/early spring video contest: upload your fishing or hunting video before April 1st, 2010, and you are automatically entered to win a $500 Cabelas gift card! It’s that simple. Make a great video and upload it to trophyroom.com and you are in the game.

In related news, a big Trophy Room congratulations to our Fall Video Contest winners, each of whom have won a $250 Cabelas gift card:

Paul Rypma won the big game hunting video contest with his Alaskan Reindeer hunt video, “The New #1 and #9 Reindeer in the World“:

Trapper Rudd won the fishing video contest with “Angling Coffee Break“:

Feel the Pulse Outdoors won our bow hunting contest with “Feel the Pulse Outdoors! Mathew’s Buck:

Congratulations to everyone that participated in our fall video contest. We wish you all luck in the next round. If you are not yet a Trophy Room member, sign-up for free today!

In my experience, when the temperatures become extremely cold the birds make a noticeable shift in demeanor and become very focused on conserving energy and surviving the cold. They fly with a purpose. They fly to go eat and fly to return to the open water and that’s about it. Birds become very concentrated on the open water available and they feed in huge numbers in a few select fields. Often they may not leave the roost until eleven o’clock or later in the day to go to the fields to eat. If the temperatures remain consistent for a couple weeks it can be relatively easy to pattern these birds once you find a good roost. Location has never been more important. If you are in the field they have been going to for the last three days by the thousands you can probably land flock after flock with two dozen full bodies and a good hide. If you are off the line by a half mile and trying to run traffic it seems that often thirty dozen full bodies and great calling won’t be able to convince them to alter the flight they are taking. These are birds that have been hunted and usually roost in big groups on open water in “safe areas” where hunting isn’t allowed or access is difficult. Open holes on ice covered lakes or rivers are a good bet. When it’s really cold, go the extra mile to gain access to where the birds want to be. Conditions are tough and the right equipment is often a requirement to get to these birds.

In some states the Canada goose season is open into mid February, and many years this allows for a big warm up right at the end of the season. As the temperatures rise from the deep freeze geese become more active and will fly farther and explore a larger area then they were using when the weather was colder. They often separate into smaller concentrations of birds on multiple open water areas and feed in small groups in multiple fields around a roost. On a big south wind it’s not uncommon in the Midwest to see migrations of birds moving north in February. It’s also common for geese to fly twice a day again and loaf on open water during the middle of the day. I often try to hunt open water loafing areas when this happens. These hunts offer in your face shooting, and if you hunt smart you can have great shooting in one location for several hunts. We hunt these areas with a small realistic decoy spread and want to be finished setting up just before the first geese start to leave the fields from their morning feeding. If you don’t shoot into big groups, and if you can finish a limit with the first groups of birds that come in you can get out of the spot without any of the other birds who are using the area ever knowing you were there.

The late season goose hunting can vary greatly depending on the weather. Freeze or thaw great hunts are possible. I’ve been able to enjoy some great opportunities by focusing my effort on how to get to the spots the birds want to be rather than focusing on trying to get the birds to come to the spot I want to hunt.

To sum up, follow these seven late season tips and you will put more geese on the ground:

1. If at all possible be where the geese want to be. They have been hunted hard by this time and if you are in the spot they are going to, you have half the battle won.
2. Shoot small flocks and get in and get out so you can hunt the same areas for multiple hunts without educating lots of birds.
3. Use small realistic decoy spreads. Late season, 300 decoys on a windless day usually means birds sliding off the spread or landing wide.
4. Understand what the birds in your area are doing related to the weather.
5. Call less than you want to, and sometimes no calling works too.
6. Hide well. If your setup allows for a close crossing shot use it to your advantage. If birds are focused on the blinds on the final approach they are more likely to pick them out.
7. Be patient with working birds. This time of year they tend to circle live birds on the ground. Give them time to commit.

There are big Whitetails coming out of multiple states right now. No more than in Iowa. Look at The Book and it speaks for itself. The “Albia Buck” is front and center. A potential new World Record Typical this year featured on Trophyroom.com’s Facebook page harvested by Iowa State Undergrad and A+ deer hunter Ryan Hobart is another example. As Iowans, we are blessed with a fantastic resource in Whitetail Deer that we need to continue to manage properly.

Trophyroom.com’s group made the decision to hunt second season shotgun (there are two main firearm seasons in Iowa and they start and end during the first three weeks in December). We can’t hunt with rifles in Iowa for bucks. In some Southern Iowa counties rifles are legal for does, but that’s it, and it’s usually in January. If you are a gun hunter in Iowa, you most likely shoot slugs from a shotgun. I have a hate/hate relationship with shotgun slugs. I don’t care what anybody says or what any of the slug manufacturers preach – slugs are a crap shoot. If you can get 1.5-2 inch groups at 75 yards you are doing well. Period. I’ve been fighting the slug accuracy game for 15 years and I’m still not winning it.

Our hunt this year started with high expectations: 1.5 feet of snow on the ground and a group of hunters who knew what they were doing hunting promising Whitetail Deer properties. The snow turned into a logistical nightmare. Stuck trucks and ATVs, unforeseen extra time getting into and out of deer stands, food plots snowed over, etc… all screwed up the program. On opening day one of our group put a slug into a 175+ 10 point buck that came out at last light. He hit it in the guts, (obviously not his goal) and it went 800 yards across a picked corn field to the nearest piece of timber. They trailed it to the timber that night and decided to wait to continue the follow-up until the next morning. Long story short, we lost the buck, even in 1.5 ft of snow with 5 experienced hunters on the follow-up the next day. The only person in the world who was having a worse day that week after we couldn’t find that buck than my buddy Matt was Tiger Woods. The Grinch was doing his Christmas Season thing to our group and it wasn’t cool.

It didn’t get better after that. It snowed again with a 1/4 inch of ice for good measure – which made our logistical nightmare even worse. We spent 2 days sitting on stand until 9:00 AM (in -15 degree wind chill temperatures), conducting deer drives (which took 4 Xs as long as they should have because of the snow and ice conditions) on alternative properties during mid-day, and sitting on stand again every afternoon until sundown. We scratched two deer in two days between 7 hunters on 4 properties. Both deer were 3.5 year old 140 class bucks that were mistakes to harvest. Not good by our standards. And, now the clock was ticking. We were struggling, frustrated, and making mistakes.

Then, it got better. We lost energy conducting deer drives and started to concentrate on food sources for afternoon sets. It was cold and we knew it was a matter of time before some of the big bucks we had on trail cameras would start to make mistakes. They did. In fact, two big bucks presented themselves within 5 minutes of one another on day #5 of hunting. I heard a shot about a 3/4s of a mile away from my ground blind and then got a quick call from my Dad saying he thought he made a good shot and his buck wouldn’t go far. Finally, it was coming together. I had to hang-up on my Dad because what would be my buck slipped out of a brushy fence row following 3 does into a picked bean field. I let him come an additional 20 yards and made my shot -150 yards with a slug gun. His front left leg wasn’t working after I hit him and he took off as fast as I’ve ever seen a Whitetail move after being shot. I waited 25 minutes and looked for blood with my flash light and found nothing. I decided to back out and look for him in the morning with better light. Dad made the same decision with his buck.

The next morning went well. Dad found his buck within 60 yards from where he shot it. Part skill, mostly luck, the buck I shot was hit in the heart and partially in both lungs. He went 50 yards (maybe slugs aren’t so bad after all). Dad’s deer ended up grossing 168 and my deer grossed 162. It was a memorable night for this Father and Son team – one I hope to repeat ASAP in the great state of Iowa in 2010.

And, Grinch, just to remind you – Dad and I kicked some ass in the 9th hour in 2009 – we will be ready for you next year.

A side note – one of the best outdoorsmen I’ve ever had the honor of spending time in the field with gave me a piece of advice three days into my hunt that is and remains enduring to me: “Remain Vigilant”.

KD – I did. Thank you. See you on the Island.

I know people who have hunted their entire lives and not shot a single banded bird. I also know rookies who have joined a hunt on a whim and shot a neck banded Canada goose with double leg bands. I’ve seen arguments erupt in the field and in the blind over who shot the banded bird. They carry some sort of power over waterfowl hunters and they take on a much deeper meaning in fowling circles. They are a status symbol of the highest degree in the waterfowl hunting world. Like a lot of things in the hunting world, “more is more” with waterfowl bands. The more bands on your lanyard, the more of a waterfowl expert you are, or so it appears.

I’m not a waterfowl expert, nor do I pretend to be. I do, however, have an opinion about improving your odds of harvesting a banded bird. Number one, it helps to be lucky. Number two, every duck or goose you shoot improves your odds of collecting a banded bird. Number three, it helps dramatically to hunt where disproportionate numbers of birds are banded (e.g., hunt local geese). Simply put, sooner or later it will happen, but you can increase your odds. Do your best to subscribe to those three statements and you will be on your way to Band Land.

Bands are fascinating because there is a story behind each one of them. A couple of years ago I was looking at a buddy’s single goose band on his lanyard, and I could barely read the numbers on it. The band was worn so thin, it was nearly illegible. He shot the goose on the Eastern Shore of Maryland and it was banded 19 years earlier in Northern Alberta. 19 years and thousands of miles…How many decoy spreads had that honker seen? How many times had it been shot at? How many calling, blinding, camouflage, and decoy fads had it seen come and go? I’ve read stories in DU Magazine about Pintails banded in Japan that were harvested in Louisiana years later. How does a duck do that? It’s often these stories that become the most fascinating and unbelievable tales in the waterfowl world.

I must admit that I too like shooting banded birds. In fact, I like it so much I decided to finally shoot my first banded duck last weekend. Like lots of things, I figured it would be worth the wait. It was. After seeing more ducks than I care to remember fall, and the requisite lifting up of each bird and checking for a leg adorned with jewelry, a fine drake mallard I’d shot finally had one. It had two, as a matter of fact. I figure the duck gods were making up for all those years of patience. And the good people at the United States Fish and Wildlife service were nice enough to send me $10.00 for my trouble. So I’ve decided that I’m going to take another trip to Band Land at my earliest convenience. I like it there.

When the migration is in full swing it can provide some of the most incredible hunting of the season. New birds falling from nose bleed altitude into a big spread of decoys after a long flight. It ‘s the time of year when landing big flocks of birds can become the norm and finding fields with thousands of geese is possible.

As always, scouting is the first step. With migrating flocks showing up in new areas, putting the time in behind the driver’s seat can create new options and new opportunities for great goose hunting. When you find birds, pay attention to what kinds of fields you see them in and what time they are coming to those fields. As the temperature drops, grain usually becomes popular. It’s also helpful if you know how many birds are in the field and if the flocks coming to the field are small with maybe twenty birds or less, or if they are coming in big flocks of several hundred birds. This will help you judge how many chances you may get during a hunt. Big decoy spreads work well at this time of the year. Flocks are on the move and in areas they are not familiar with. A huge mass of decoys gets attention and creates curiosity. If you like to blow your goose call this can be the time to do it. Of course reading the birds is still required, and there’s no need to scream at them if they are coming in anyway, but watching a huge flock of migrators lock up on aggressive calling is something every waterfowler should experience.

Most experienced waterfowlers will tell you not to hunt the roost, and I agree that in most circumstances it’s good advice to follow. Generally, it keeps birds using an area and the field hunting can continue around the roost for a long time with success. Keep in mind though that each area can be different. I have hunted areas where water is abundant and grain fields are scare. In these areas you could hunt the water and the birds would move to another piece of water half a mile away. But if you shoot the only grain field in 10 miles it will most likely changer their flight path completely. So learn what the birds habits are in your area and respect them.

I mention this because one of my favorite ways to hunt is to run traffic (intercepting geese between their roost and where they want to be) on a pasture pond or loafing area at this time of year. These ponds are not roosts and may be used sporadically by some, but not most, of the geese in the area to loaf mid-day. The best luck I have had is finding this situation somewhere between the roost and the fields where the birds are feeding. Big combination spreads of floaters, fullbodies, and shells can be extremely realistic and lets you add huge numbers of decoys. Hide well and don ‘t leave too early – some of the best hunting can be late morning as migrating birds are looking for a spot to rest and the feeding birds are heading back to the roost mid-day.

Late November and most of December (depending on the weather) are usually great goose hunting months through much of the central United States. Get in the field on the front edge of a big North wind and hope the water freezes or the food gets scarce enough to the North that it sends some new birds your way. Big numbers of geese just showing up in the area will often create the opportunity for some memorable hunting.

Earlier this month I experienced many of the typical “pre trip” trepidations prior to jumping on a plane for the remote village of Nikolski on Umnak Island, AK in the Aleutian Islands for a trophy free-range Reindeer hunting trip with lead guide Kevin Adkins at Nikolski Adventures. After 3,700 miles and successful connections in Seattle, Anchorage and Dutch Harbor, I stepped off the Navajo Chieftain onto a gravel runway surrounded by 680 square miles of unspoiled and uninhabited wilderness that looked like something out of a National Geographic magazine. With its windswept tundra, ever-present views of Mt. Vsevidof and miles of rugged coastline shared by the Bearing Sea and Pacific Ocean, I felt as though I was being greeted by an old friend.

While heading off to a remote place to clear your head and decompress is certainly not a new concept, most people’s idea of this involves lying on a beach for 5 days with some sort of rum drink or beer in hand, essentially doing nothing. For the record, I have no problem with lying on a beach for 5 days doing nothing; I actually tend to like it. The issue is, after several days of doing nothing; you walk away with little more than a nice tan and a mild hangover.

My weeklong hunting excursion on Umnak Island was somewhat rugged and mildly demanding from a physical standpoint with long days spent on four-wheelers and in the field. We enjoyed a beautiful lodge with all the creature comforts of home, however from dusk to dawn, rain or shine, we were in the field pursuing something…. whether that meant trophy Reindeer, Harlequin ducks, stunning photographs or simply a desire to explore what was around the next cove. Early in the hunt we were blessed by good weather, high visibility and abundant Reindeer herds which allowed us to observe many potential animals with our spotting scopes and binoculars. Fortunately, our guides Kevin, Danny Boy and Vinny were able to put our hunting party on several potential animals and the rest is history. Through commitment, sacrifice (time away from home, money, etc), good luck and great guides, we were able to harvest three record book reindeer, including a new SCI World Record scoring 551 gross and the new #9 in the world scoring 475, shot by yours truly.

So, as I sit here re-adjusting back to normal life, I look back on all the fond memories of a true adventure. Stories of seal hunting and shipwrecks with our Native Aleut guides, stunning wildlife and weather events, the opportunity to harvest record book trophies, time to reflect on what’s important in life. The bottom line is this….pursuing something in a remote locale is more important that simply being somewhere remote. Whether that means 30” Rainbow Trout, monster-sized Kodiak bears or world-class Reindeer, there is no finer place in North America to pursue your outdoor passions and reconnect with your primal self than the wilds of Alaska. Hunting is both a right and a privilege for Americans, and regardless of the latest liberal, uninformed, knee-jerk, populist rhetoric regarding guns and hunting the media chooses to broadcast on any given day, we owe it to ourselves to take advantage of this right and make it a priority.

In addition to reconnecting with yourself, you might just get lucky and find yourself in the record books.

1.Being a Game Hog
Have you ever been on a Pheasant hunt that required blockers and pushers? Is there someone in your group that is always the first to volunteer as a blocker and then remains a blocker throughout the course of the hunt? Don’t be that guy. We all know blockers get a majority of the shooting. Rotate with pushers accordingly and share the wealth. The same goes for the duck blind. Sometimes wind conditions, decoy set-up, and calling all lead to one side of the blind getting more shooting than the other. If you knock down 4 greenheads in a row and your buddies on the left side of the blind haven’t pulled the trigger yet, this is the beginning of a pattern for the day’s hunt. Offer to switch spots or pass on a few birds so everyone can get in on the shooting. Blind morale will be high, which is good for everyone. Same goes for lay out blinds in crop fields. Tell your buddies to slide their lay out blinds to the hot side of the spread if you’re on it and getting a majority of the shooting. Everyone wants to shoot, so do your best to ensure they get to. The close relative of the Game Hog is the “I Got Mine” guy. The “I Got Mine” guy insists on letting everyone in the group know he hit his target(s) when he pulled the trigger, often claiming other’s birds as his own. If you made a great shot, your buddies will let you know about it. Bragging and over-claiming birds is a one way road to not being invited back.

2.Hunting Bad Dogs
This is a sensitive one. A great bird dog is something to behold. Unfortunately very few dogs are great. Most aren’t even close and bad ones can ruin a hunt. And criticizing someone’s hunting dog isn’t very easy to pull off. A good place to start on the topic of bird dogs is whether you should include your dog in the hunt at all. Step one is determining if you are a guest on a hunt. Were you asked to bring your dog? Just because you’ve got a bird dog doesn’t mean it is automatically a part of the hunt. ONLY bring your dog if you are asked to. Period. If it’s your hunt, than you can call the shots. If you aren’t requested to bring your dog and feel the need to ask if you can bring it, the writing may be on the wall about your pooch and what, if any value it adds to the hunt.

This is a list of bird dog red flags we all need to be aware of:

• Pre-mature breaking from the blind while ducks or geese are working
• Consistently flushing Pheasants or Quail out of range
• Won’t retrieve
• Won’t honor a point
• Fights with other dogs
• Acts aggressively towards or bites humans
• Non-stop whining in the blind
• Doesn’t respond to basic commands
• You talk to your dog. Tell your dog a command, and if it doesn’t do what it’s told, make it do it. Period. Talking in sentences confuses dogs. Have your set of simple commands and make sure your dog understands them.
• Abusing electricity. Shock collars are a tool and not a crutch – use them accordingly. If you are shocking your dog every 5 minutes during a hunt, that dog needs more proper training and shouldn’t be in the field.

If you or your dog are guilty of any of the red flags above, you both need to make some changes. Easier said than done on a lot of them, but believe me, your hunting buddies will thank you for it and your overall bird hunting experience will improve dramatically.

3. Not Resting Your Spot
Waterfowl and upland game need a refuge. Depending on where and what you are hunting the roost or refuge can be the most important factor in a successful hunt. There is a reason why you can’t hunt Pheasants until noon in South Dakota, and you have to stop Pheasant hunting in Iowa at 4:30 – the birds need a rest during feeding times (generally in the mornings and late afternoon). If you find a piece of water that is black with ducks and geese, you’ve found an active waterfowl roost. When you have the option, hunt fields around the roost, or pockets of water far enough away that when you shoot the first duck or goose the entire roost doesn’t get up in alarm never to be seen again. You may have found the mother load of waterfowl, but chances are someone else knows about them and wants to hunt them too. If you shoot the roost you’ll most likely have a fantastic hunt. But it’s also most likely a one hunt deal. Save it and figure out a way to keep the birds on the roost and you won’t have one great shoot – you’ll have multiple really good ones. Your fellow hunter on your neighboring property will thank you for it, and I’m sure you’d like it if they did it for you. In addition to protecting the roost, the most successful duck clubs and Pheasant hunting operations all share one thing in common – they either hunt in the morning or afternoon, but never both.

4.Being Unsafe
Safety is #1, always. Whether you are hunting Quail in South Georgia, Pheasants in Iowa or waterfowl on the Canadian prairies, the first thing that should always happen is a pre-hunt safety talk. The biggest reason for a pre-hunt safety talk is getting everyone on the same page with what is and isn’t going to happen. Without it, you are asking for trouble. This is a list of topics that should be covered in your pre-hunt safety talk:

• Gun safeties only come off as you are raising your gun to your shoulder or when it is shouldered. No exceptions.
• Never shoot a bird on the ground.
• If you are using an over/under, keep it broken whenever you aren’t actually hunting. This means the gun is broken when you finish hunting a field and are standing around coming up with your next plan.
• Never swing your gun across a line of walking hunters. Keep your gun vertical, turn your body, and then raise your shotgun to shoot.
• Never load a gun in the car. It goes without saying that you should never shoot a gun out of a car – it’s illegal in almost every state and is unethical.
• Don’t shoot “over” people in a blind. At the least, you’ll ring their ears. At the most, it can be deadly.
• Always know where blockers or standers are when pushing a field. If there’s any doubt, hold your fire.
• Always know where the dogs are. If you don’t you shouldn’t shoot.
• Booze and hunting don’t mix. Not even one pre-hunt beer.
• When hunting waterfowl out of a blind, one person calls the shot. Only shoot when the shot is called. It’s the safest, and ensures everyone has a chance to shoot.

5.Showing Up Late
I won’t tolerate being late for a bird hunt. As far as I am concerned, if you are going to be late, you might as well not show at all. For waterfowl hunting, the first half hour is often the best part of the shoot. If you are late, you aren’t putting out decoys, brushing-up the blind, and doing all of the other things that have to happen before you load the guns and start the hunt. Joining an upland hunt late means you have to find your hunting partners in the field and you will in one way or another further inconvenience them by your tardiness. Be on time.

6.Bringing Too Many People
No one likes a crowded duck blind, too many lay out blinds on a goose hunt, or too many walkers on a Pheasant hunt. Occasionally “the more the merrier” works with bird hunting. Most often, the experience is better for everyone if you keep numbers down. If you have to, take turns in the blind or in the field- it’s safer and will improve the hunt for everyone.

7.Trespassing
Trespassing is first of all illegal. It’s also unethical. The simple solution is get permission before you hunt private land. I realize more and more land is private and lots of landowners won’t let the public hunt on their land. That doesn’t mean that their neighbor won’t let you hunt. When you trespass, you are giving all of us a bad name, which does nothing for the common good of hunters. Respect landowner’s wishes and don’t trespass on posted property.

Etiquette in the field goes a long way with everyone. One of the most important reasons to conduct yourself properly in the field is to provide the right example for new and young hunters. Hunting is a learned skill and those around you will follow your lead. Make sure you are leading properly.

4. Not taking your time

I chose this as a sin, because it is easy to make sense of when you think about how deer react to hunting pressure. They are using their keen hearing, sharp eyesight, and all world sense of smell to avoid you, all while moving very slowly. Doesn’t it make sense that we do the same? Now before you think I am a complete lunatic, think about this – how many times have you found yourself stumbling through the woods only to realize that you walked right past a group of deer, or walked right up on a big buck? How many times have you spotted a deer staring at you 25 feet from your tree stand? By slowing down and using your sight and hearing more tactfully, you may find exactly what I have: If you pay close attention to what you are doing and SLOW DOWN, you will catch many things that you may not have found out otherwise. It only takes one encounter with a big buck to harvest him. Take your time, be prepared at all times, and let your eyes and ears work for you. They will never compare to a deer’s senses, but they aren’t using Swarovski’s and carrying a Mathews, either. You will gloss over many potentially important clues or even a buck of a lifetime if you don’t.

5. Being lazy

This is actually one of the “original” seven deadly sins, and as far the seven deadly sins of whitetail hunting, it is probably the most common. This is a short list of things hunters often neglect and sometimes regret because they were too lazy to do the right thing:

• Not scouting enough. Use trail cameras – you don’t even need to be there. This is inexcusable.
• Not educating yourself and becoming proficient with the gun and load/bow and arrow combo you are using. I know many people who buy a new brand of slugs every year, and never fire a single shot at a target to see how they work. The same goes for broad heads.
• Not following up EVERY shot taken. Two of the largest bucks I have ever taken didn’t leave a speck of blood, but they were very dead when I found them hours later.
• Not getting up early enough. We all probably stay until the very last minute of shooting light in the evening – but are you entering your hunting area an hour before shooting light in the morning? An hour before shooting time is the latest I like to arrive in the morning. Simply put, you spook less deer when you do this.
• Rely strictly on deer drives. They work, I know, but deer are far more predictable when they are not chased and shot at by the “orange army”. Sitting on stand for hours on end gives less instant gratification, but will generally provide higher quality, closer shots.

• Not using modern techniques. You do not have to spend a fortune to become as scent free as possible. If you can’t afford Scent Lok, use perfume free detergent and a storage bag with crushed pine needles, and shower with no additive soap every time you go out. It helps.

6. Be an unethical hunter
This is one I find especially bothersome. Remember, no matter how many hunters do the right thing, it only takes a few who trespass, poach, or are unsafe to spoil the image for all of us. Especially now with gun control nuts and anti-hunters having a voice, we need to always do the right thing and make sure others do the same. Police each other, and respect laws and property owners, period.

7. Fail to have fun
When writing a piece like this, it is easy to sound stuffy, conceited, and like a know-it-all. I can produce a list like this very easily only because I have committed many if not all of these sins at one point or another in my whitetail hunting career. I am not a fun hater. I actually feel that most hunters need to have more fun and stop taking everything so seriously. But there is a right way and a wrong way to accomplish this. I’ve found that by avoiding these sins, my success has increased exponentially and I’ve begun to have a lot more fun as well. Part of my enjoyment comes from seeing my hard work pay off harvesting several 150”+ bucks in the past 10 years. Even more fulfillment comes from knowing I did it the right way. It took commitment to sticking with a few basic principles and not repeating the mistakes I figured out along the way.

1) Don’t go in with a plan
It is generally best to keep things simple regardless of the task. This holds true with whitetails. However, there are things that are “musts” when a mature Whitetail Buck is your quarry. Be mindful of all things that are in your control. More simply put, this equates to going into a hunt with a plan. When you are planning your hunt for the following day/evening/week, take a look at things from a fifty thousand foot view. Do all the things you are planning to do seem to fit together into a solid overall plan? Just make sure you are being consistent in all the different things you will be doing, especially the details. A couple examples of this are: Being mindful of the wind on approach to your stand only to have your wind blowing into a bedding area once you get there. Another is wearing warm enough clothes to stay on stand all day during the rut or not watching the weather report. If it rains, you have no raingear, and are soaked and have to call it quits (this actually happened to me last year). The fact of the matter is one little overlooked detail in a plan can ruin an entire hunt. We spend a lot of time and money doing this thing we love, so make sure that you are doing everything in your power to maximize your hunts with a solid plan before the hunt starts.

2) Not knowing your hunting area
Do you ever notice when walking through your hunting area in spring, whether you are looking for sheds, turkeys, or mushroom hunting, how many different features reveal themselves that you otherwise never would have known were there? A major scrape line in a thicket, a bedding area you didn’t know deer really used, or an escape route in to a sanctuary are all prime examples. I realized I was discovering all of these great things about how deer behaved on a piece of property, and then doing nothing with it and going right back to my old routines once deer season rolled around.

Then I changed. I started taking note when I noticed patterns. Some of them inevitably remain the same the following year, and others change. But if you make it a point to remember and apply what you are learning about a property from year to year, I assure you your success will increase, and you may start to enjoy hunting more. There will be fewer frustrations from not repeating mistakes. Just like anything else, what you learn is important, but it is even more important to use that knowledge properly.

3) Not setting goals for your hunt/ hunting property
You may think goals are only set by athletes or people who buy a Tony Robbins motivational tape. I think it is a very logical thing to do as a whitetail deer hunter. Whether you are hunting with a group utilizing QDM (Quality Deer Management) practices on a large tract of land, or are hunting on grandpa’s north forty, you are looking to harvest a specific animal or animals. For many, it’s putting meat in the freezer for the year. For a farmer, their goal may be to reduce the total number of deer on their land to reduce crop damage. For a property owner or Manager, there may be several different harvest goals set to improve the overall health of the herd and increase the number of older age class bucks.

There are many different sets of expectations from different hunters and these expectations and goals should be recognized and acted upon to improve the quality of the hunt, as well as the quality of the property hunted. For example, if your goal is to harvest two mature, 150” bucks on a parcel of land per year, you shouldn’t expect to accomplish this without at the very least a solid management plan that will aid in the survival of bucks to the age of 4.5-5.5. A good rule to follow getting to your goals is all bucks estimated 3.5 years old walk, regardless of the circumstances or antler size. Another strategy is to plant late season food plots to encourage deer to stay on your land through the difficult winter months and later hunting seasons. A few other tactics are improving bedding cover, improving the buck/doe ratio, or if you don’t own property, set group rules that encourage what you are trying to accomplish on that property. I could go on and on with this one, but the point is this: Set goals for your hunting season / hunting land, and do whatever it takes to accomplish them. Get everyone who you hunt with involved and educate them on what you are trying to accomplish and why. When done properly, you soon will be accomplishing whatever goals that you set, which makes for a better experience for everyone.

(Click here to read Part 2)

Goose hunting opportunities abound throughout the United States and today seasons start earlier than ever. If you are lucky enough to have an early season available in your state you may find yourself in the field as early as mid August. Even more common is a September season for Canada geese. Remember, early season geese can be the same geese we hunt later in the year, but where we find them and how we hunt them may be different.

Scouting is always important. At this time of year many of the local geese are only months old and many have never been further than a few miles from the water where they took their first swim. Generally there are fewer geese in the area than there are when the migration is in full swing and this means fewer flocks in the air during a hunt. The weather is warm and in many areas the grain crops are not harvested yet. This combination often leads to geese grazing on grasses near the water’s edge with little incentive to fly. My experience has been that they will still fly, but it’s usually not a long flight and the birds are pretty certain on the direction they want to go. If your scouting has been productive, and you’re in the spot they have been going for the last few days you have the biggest part of the battle won.

Don’t make it more complicated than it needs to be. If you’re hunting a pond geese have been coming to at 9:00 every morning for the past two weeks and they haven’t been bothered, chances are good that they are coming there again. You probably don’t need to convince them to come to the spot. It may be as simple as not making them suspicious of the spot or your setup. This simply means hide well and put a handful of decoys where the geese have been. This time of year many geese are in family groups. There’s no need to go crazy with the decoys and set a new “flock” of fifty fakes where the geese using the area are used to coming to an empty bank or a puddle of water with one family group of geese swimming. Look natural and imitate what you have seen when you are scouting.

If you can’t get to the exact spot the birds are heading to it can be productive to get under their flight line from the roost to a feeding or loafing spot. This can be a challenge as it’s usually a short flight. If you find yourself “on the flight line” remember that a lot of these early season geese are only a few months old and have never seen a decoy or heard a call. Hooking up the trailer and setting out 100 full bodies isn’t necessary. Again a few small family groups of geese may create enough curiosity to get the birds to give you a look. It’s a good time to sound natural on your goose call. My advice is to avoid the temptation to hammer on your call and really try to sound natural and imitate one goose, or two geese talking back and forth. If you are hidden well a few realistic notes can be all it takes to commit them to the decoys.

There is usually lots of vegetation available in these early months of the season. Put your time in on your hide and make yourself disappear. You may only see two or three groups in the air during a hunt and not hiding well is a good way to make it a frustrating hunt.

While you probably won’t find huge numbers of birds piled into a big corn field in September, if you put your time in scouting you can find unpressured, predictable and naïve geese scattered in smaller numbers throughout the area. The weather is usually mild and you may find that it’s a great way to kickoff your waterfowl season.

You can watch all of the Trophy Room video promotions brought to you by the lovely Laura Schara here:

1. Kevin Bacon, playing Chip Diller in Animal House, may have said it best: “Remain calm. All is well!”
Opposition to hunting is an emotional response, not a rational one. Never forget this vital truth, and never willfully enter into a war of emotions with an anti. Neither you nor your partner in dialogue will even hear what the other is saying, begging the question: why have the conversation in the first place?

2. The Boy Scouts had it right: Be prepared
We have all had this conversation numerous times, so there is absolutely no excuse not to have your argument at-the-ready, and at all times. If you get caught off-guard, it is your own fault.

3. Use appropriate supporting evidence
Before you get into sustainable harvests, genetic improvement of the herd, the involvement of hunters in conservation organizations, etc., ask them one question: How do animals die in the wild? Of course you know that animals perish in Mother Nature one of three ways: starvation, predation or disease. Needless to say, these are very unpleasant ways to exit this mortal coil. Remind them that instantaneous death is far more humane than any of Mother Nature’s alternatives. A note about Mother Nature: she is a noble woman, and hunting is a noble pursuit; it is a gentleman’s sport. Both She and hunting should be spoken of with due reverence.

4. Keep it simple, stupid
Be clear, be sharp, be concise. More often than not, if this conversation lasts more than ten or fifteen minutes, you are beating a dead horse, and you have lost your audience (see “begging the question”, #1).

5. Be polite
When you are speaking to antis, you are speaking on behalf of all hunters. Extend your brethren the courtesy of not making us all look like horse’s asses (that is the liberal media’s job). You would only be reinforcing previously held beliefs, and hurting us all in the process. The object of this process is to improve our image.

6. Observe!
As you are a highly trained hunting expert, this ought to be easy. My all-time favorite tactic in these conversations is to point out two simple items on your adversary’s body: their belt and their shoes. All leather, 90% of the time (the shoes, in particular). Calmly remind them that something died in order for them to be stylish. Ask them whether or not they have leather seats in their car, whether or not they eat meat, and remind them that the animals that died for their plates and their pleasure were never afforded the opportunity of life in the wild. (Author’s note: the shoes/belt trick will not work if speaking with hemp aficionado Woody Harrelson…you’ll have to improvise).

7. You are not going to win
Put your delusions of grandeur aside, and accept the fact that you are not William Jennings Bryan. Even if you were, it would not matter. You, with your fine mind, keen wit, and excellent supporting data, are not going to change the mind of an anti. It has been said that all of the facts in the world will not dissuade a liberal, and this is a similar scenario. Again – and this bears repeating – their opposition is emotional, not rational. The goal is to state your case well, to be reasonable, charming, and calm, and to instill in the listener an improved understanding of our venerable sport.

There you have it. Now go forth and conquer…or at least tutor a bit.

Let’s assume we can all agree that blind bags will hold our licenses, ammo, and cell phone for the day. From there each hunting situation dictates what else you need in your bag. If you can see the truck from your blind you may not need much more. If you’re lucky enough to be on mostly frozen water for a long boat ride in below freezing temperatures it will help to have a well packed bag. The possibilities of what we might run into in the field are endless and it’s nearly impossible to be completely prepared for all of them. The following is a list of items I have found that are helpful at one time or another while in the field.

1. Clothing
Wet gloves are cold gloves. I usually have several pairs of gloves in my bag. When gloves get wet it’s far better to just change into another pair that are dry to stay comfortable. If I know it’s going to be nasty out I also pack a hand warmer that belts around the waist and allows me to put both hands inside without having to wear gloves. This is especially useful when you don’t want to have to pull your gloves off and on while running a call. Conditions can change quickly and it’s no fun to get stuck in a baseball hat when the north wind unexpectedly starts to blow at 40 miles per hour. Pack a stalking cap and neck gaiter in your bag – it’s better to have it and not need it. I also keep a facemask in my bag. I hate wearing it, but some days you can’t avoid the fact that you need to wear it or spend the remainder of the morning watching birds flare in the same spot over and over.

2. First Aid Kit
I always have a first aid kit in my bag. It’s not huge, but it carries some medicines for minor issues like headaches and upset stomachs. I also make sure it has enough gauze, athletic tape or duct tape, and compression bandages to stop bleeding if I had to. If you wear contacts it’s also a convenient spot to stash an extra pair. I also keep a back up knife in this bag as well.

3. GPS
Buy a handheld that has the capability of additional memory cards and maps. A few years ago I never though I’d need one or advocate for them. It’s become an invaluable tool in my bag. It gets you back to where you started and the convenience of mindlessly exploring and being able to easily return to a new area is fantastic. I love that when I’m scouting (especially in an unfamiliar area) I can just follow birds without paying attention to where I am and as long as I marked my starting. I also don’t have to worry about learning how to get to any new hunting spots. I can just mark it with the GPS and find it at a later time.

4. Multi-tool
I’ve used mine to cut the anchor line (that someone forgot to pull up before we were moving, oops!) out of the prop as the wind and two and a half footers pushed us towards the submerged trees in about twenty feet of water. It’s been used to make minor gun repairs, rig decoys, and make repairs to boats and blinds all while in the field.

5. Headlight
The ability to use both hands while you are in the dark can be extremely helpful. Whether I’m setting decoys, working on a cold boat motor, or digging in my bag, it is so much easier if the light shines where you need it to without leaving the use of only one hand.

6. Folding saw
Hiding well is important. I’ve found that most people skimp on concealment due to a lack of time allotted towards it, or the effort it takes to get the job done well. A good saw can make the job go much faster and easier. On a side note, check with your local law enforcement agencies on the legality of cutting blind material as some states stipulate that you can only gather already dead material when on public land.

7. Parachute Chord
I keep about 30 feet of it in my bag. I don’t use it often but it doesn’t take up much space and makes an easy jerk string on a still day. It did save me one time as an impromptu game strap on a long walk.

8. Game Strap
As mentioned above, long walks out are much easier with a game strap when you’ve had a good hunt.

9. Zip Ties
They are so inexpensive and can solve a multitude of problems. Boat motor parts and hoses can be held together, and blind doors can be fixed. They are great for attaching vegetation to your hide. I’m sure there are more uses than I’ve discovered to date.

10. Binoculars
They don’t have to be huge. Lots of brands offer a compact 8×42 that fit easily in most bags. It’s surprising how far a good spotter can track a winged golden eye as it dives and surfaces while a buddy is getting the boat out for the chase.

11. Extra calls/reeds and guts
It’s no fun when a reed blisters and the call loses its sound. If you are competent at tuning the call yourself you can save some space and just carry extra reeds, tone boards, wedges, and cork in your bag. If not, keep an extra call or two in the bag that are ready to go.

Spend some time thinking about your specific hunting situation and modify your bag accordingly. The market is full of good bags with multiple styles and sizes. Many of the newer bags will float even with a ton of gear in them and some have dry pockets as well. Preparing before the hunt will almost always make your time in the field more enjoyable.

1. Calling Too Much

Just about every call maker or pro-staffer would have you believe your call is your secret weapon for waterfowl hunting. It certainly can be the ticket on specific days, and it is important to be a proficient caller. However, if pressed, I’d place it far further down the list of importance than I think most would. Let’s face it: we love to hear ourselves call. I’ll be the first to admit it. But if you do not know when and how to call properly, you can spook 10x as many birds as you are calling into the decoys. One way many good callers explain how to remedy overcalling is by calling to wingtips and tail feathers of the birds. If they are coming in on their own, let them come. You do NOT need to coax unless they hang-up outside of the decoys. Then hit them with a quick sequence, just to get those wings locked again and keep quiet until you call the shot. My dad says it best, “it has to be their idea, you just need to finish the thought.”

Now that I’ve explained why not to overcall, let me tell you the one exception to the rule as far as when to call, call, call until they are in the dekes: travel or flight days (cold, blustery, northwest wind days when new birds are migrating into your area). I usually call to these birds until their feet are down. Migrating birds are searching out safety by sight and sound of other birds, and you can at times put them on a string with your call. The days following travel days, back off a bit and see what happens. But please, put your highball in your pocket. That is a call I wish hunters would give up forever. I hunt waterfowl 30+ days a year and I use a highball maybe three or four days a season and that is it – the point is use the highball sparingly and only when truly needed.

2. Overlooking the Little Things

As I age as a waterfowl hunter, I make it a point to do the little things that might improve your hunt. When you watch the fourth flock of birds pump out of your blocks at the last minute, try to visualize what the problem is. You may not actually come up with a solution, but, if you do not try to figure out what the problem is and change things up a bit, you really shouldn’t expect anything to change, should you? Check things out from downwind and see if anything catches your eye. Ask yourself: could the blind use a little more material? Are the decoys tipped over or touching? Do the birds have a place to land? Does the spacing look natural between the decoys? Is there anything shining? These are all questions to ask when things aren’t going as planned. If you find anything looks or feels off, fix it, cover it up or move it. Make sure the “little things” are done properly, and your hunting success will increase dramatically.

3. Movement

There are several things waterfowl key on while working your spread. The biggest is movement. To birds, movement within the spread is natural and means safety. Everything outside of the spread should remain motionless (minus wind of course). Movement equals getting noticed, and getting noticed is no good. If they are looking at you instead of for you, expect birds to flare and tough shots. Stay as motionless as possible until the shot is called.

4. Showing Your Face

A hunter showing their face in the sun is quite possibly my biggest pet peeve in waterfowling. Maybe or even greater in importance to movement is watching waterfowl work with a non-camoed face. Stand back from your blind a hundred yards or so, and have someone peek out the top exposing their face. It sticks out like a sore thumb. It is perhaps the most unnatural looking thing that could possibly exist in a field or marsh. We all like to watch birds work because it is one of the more enjoyable parts of waterfowl hunting – but either mask or camouflage your face. If you won’t do this, then keep your face down completely and trust the caller calls the shot when the birds are in the kill hole. More birds flare from a shiny face than pretty much anything else – trust me. Take a look at boats on a marsh or blinds in a field and look to see what sticks out….it will blow you away.

(Click here to read Part 2)

5. Taking Shots You Don’t Fully Expect to Make – The Sky Bust

This is a waterfowl sin that if not broken, will dramatically raise your connection rate on birds, and make for an overall better experience for you and everyone else on the marsh and field. Think of it this way: if there is even a shadow of a doubt you won’t make a perfectly clean kill when you pull the trigger, you probably should not pull it. This rule has held true for me more often than not, because generally, I’ve found this to be around 25-35 yards for me and just about everyone else, as well. At this range you can definitively distinguish drakes from hens of almost any species. More importantly, you have a good dense pattern and whether you are shooting steel 6’s or Hevi-Shot 8’s, birds fold cleanly. Another benefit of this rule is you are not educating birds. Sky busting makes birds extremely wary and flare prone at a hundred yards away from your decoys and blind, and this hurts everyone. Just because modern ammunition extends your range doesn’t change the fact that the sport of waterfowling is based on using your gear and skills to get them CLOSE.

6. Poor Etiquette and Safety

This includes a wide variety of things that are all very important. First of all they can be annoying. More importantly, they can compromise safety and the overall enjoyment of the experience. Since this involves so many different topics, I chose to list some of the more obvious and important things to avoid and why.

• Bringing a poorly trained dog – it ruins shooting opportunities and makes for a very unpleasant and uncomfortable experience for everyone.
• Not setting up early enough – you miss some of the best shooting opportunities of the day and possibly ruin a few for others while you are rushing to get your set-up complete.
• Shooting outside of your lanes in a blind – who hasn’t had their ears rung by a questionable shot? An easy remedy: if you question whether or not you should be shooting, don’t. ALWAYS error on the side of caution.
• Not blinding properly – you have already spent thousands on gear to this point, so don’t skimp on something as plentiful and free as blinding material in the field.
• Inviting too many people on a hunt – we all enjoy sharing a prime shoot with our friends, but if you bring too many people at once, it will be less safe, less comfortable, and overall just plain less enjoyable. Invite friends by all means -just stay within your blind’s size limitations.
• Continuing to call at birds working someone else’s spread – this confuses the birds and is poor sportsmanship. If another group has birds locked-up, leave them alone, and hopefully they will do the same for you.
• Down-winding someone’s spread – a sometimes effective (and very dirty) technique employed by setting up downwind, and generally too close to another decoy setup/hunter. Ducks and geese both use the wind to work a spread. If you set up downwind of another hunter, you will likely be tempted to shoot at birds passing at marginal range as they work into the wind to get to the upwind decoy set-up where they were likely set up first, and this is just plain wrong. If you do this, expect to get yelled at if you are lucky. I shudder at what I’ve seen done to the not-so-lucky.

• Frown upon others for their passion – I once HATED snow geese, now I can’t live without them.

7. Not Passing On the Tradition

This may not seem worthy of being labeled a “sin”, but think about it for a minute. Waterfowling is a sport that is enjoyed with others. It is an activity that becomes more like a religion than anything else as it is taught and passed along from father to son, mentor to student, etc. Without my father to teach me, and others with a passion to learn from me, where would I be? Ask yourself this question, and pass along the right traditions to the right people, or we will only have ourselves to blame for the bleak future of waterfowl hunting.

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1. Fishing Cold Water vs. Warm Water
When the water warms up during the summer months, striped bass go down to deeper depths in order to cool down their bodily temperatures. Stripers are cold blooded “Poikilotherm’s” which means they must regulate their temperature by external means. To counter their habits, you must find the cooler water eddies in your location – usually lower than 75 degrees Fahrenheit with the best temperature around 55 degrees. The hotter it is, the deeper the better!

2. Too Much Drag vs. Too Little Drag
Striped Bass are aggressive fighters, but they do have toothless mouths. That said, do not be afraid of them biting through the line. When a big one is on the hook and the drag is too firm, you risk the hook ripping right out of the to-be trophy’s mouth. In order to counter this, the drag system on any reel must be set accordingly. Do not be afraid to have it on the looser end, after all, a tired fish after a few minutes of running is better than a lost fish with a big hole in its jaw. Just do not be afraid to set the hook!

3. Using Artificial Bait vs. Live Bait
Live bait should almost always be your first choice for Striped Bass, but sometimes it is hard to come by. Artificial bait has been proven to out-fish plain old live bait in some situations. Although a few companies have been around for years, newer artificial bait products such as ‘Sluggo’, ‘Gulp,’ and ‘Storm’ incorporate special materials and scientific research in order to give you more productive artificial bait. When fishing these products, it is important to consult the directions so they are fished properly.

4. Targeting Protected Waters vs. Open Ocean
Think inlets – the open ocean is too vast of an area to target Stripers. Rather than combing the Atlantic stick to the inlets, inter-coastal waterways, and rocky structures. This is because when the season opens, the Stripers are returning to their salt water domains to roam around until breeding time returns. Inlets provide both salt and fresh water (commonly referred to as brackish water), where the bass operate. Furthermore, inlets usually offer plenty of rocks as they are dredged to the sides to protect beaches against tides, weather, etc… These rocks are where the Bass congregate and commonly hunt for unassuming prey.

5. Fishing Darkness vs. Daylight
Striped Bass are predominantly nocturnal creatures, meaning they hunt in the darkness, and are less active during the day. When casting into the darkness, it is important to use a lure that shocks the area surrounding it. The idea is for the fish to feel the vibrations, and hear the rattles as well as the gushes of water as it is being pulled through the surf. This allows the fish to locate, isolate, and then strike the lure. The darker it is, the darker the lure must be – no joke!

6. High Tide vs. Low Tide
It is difficult to say when the fishing is better – high tide or low tide. It is dependent upon the area you are targeting. However, fishing for stripers is always most productive about 45 minutes before the tide returns or goes out.

7. Sea Lice vs. No Sea Lice
When Striper season opens, many people target estuaries and channels that flow into the ocean. Although fishing these areas is very productive, they are often polluted with run-off from the surrounding shore. In order to check whether or not a Striper is what scientists call a ‘holdover’ or is a migratory fish check for sea lice. When Bass come inshore from the ocean they carry small lice – most often on their fins and stomach. This means that the fish is migratory, which ultimately makes for a safer meal on the dining room table.